Tree row rehabilitation?

[Traxion]

I have a quarter of ground in the family that is one of our main upland hunting opportunities. It's got an old farmstead on it, about 20 acres of CRP, a 5 row tree strip planted 10 years ago. The remainder is cropland with (6) 1/2 mile long single tree rows. These are Soil Bank era rows that are dying out. In terms of nesting habitat, they don't provide a lot but don't hurt. Mostly they provide hunting opportunity. We've killed hundreds of birds out of them over the years. They're really going downhill now due to age and I'm trying to figure out the best way (if any) to do some rehab. First, we have to do some clean up of the rows and get rid of the major dead stuff. But after this I'm not sure where to go. I'm not close enough to provide regular watering to anything I plant. The original rows didn't get it and they survived well, but our 5 row strip hasn't done well. I also have some concerns about chemicals as the strips of cropland are actively farmed. Not sure if that has hurt the current trees or not. Good grass in the rows now, generally they are 15-20' wide right now.

My thought is to start with a row, do the clean up. Kill off , then mow to the dirt 75-100 spots and hand plant trees or shrubs. Fabric and water the first round, then cross my fingers. This would be a spring time deal for best results. Deer are somewhat of a concern but they aren't there in big enough numbers to worry me too much. I'd do the first row and see what happens. Maybe try to do a couple rows a year after. Thoughts? Recommendations of trees or shrubs/bushes that would work? SC ND border area for reference? Unfortunately with the old stumps, etc. I just don't see much machine work happening. Lots of work but I want to try to maintain the opportunity if I can.

 

[fireone]

Possibly consider Eastern Red Cedar, tough tree, good cover for birds, 52 species eat the berries. Your plan sounds good.

 

[bucksnbears]

Yes on the red cedars.

 

[wslayer]

Think it would be worth getting a horticulturist out to look at. They are more than willing to help you with a plan.
Or excuse me, probably an arborist.

 

[NDSportsman]

What kind of trees are they? Guessing either chinese elm or cottonwoods. Wonder if cutting them off about 5-6 feet above ground would generate new growth and or allow smaller suckers or shrubs to take over? Just a thought.

 

[Traxion]

What kind of trees are they? Guessing either chinese elm or cottonwoods. Wonder if cutting them off about 5-6 feet above ground would generate new growth and or allow smaller suckers or shrubs to take over? Just a thought.

Elm trees. We have seen very little regrow from broken or cut trees unfortunately.

 

[Maddog]

morels?

 

[Traxion]

Thoughts on Rocky Mountain Junipers over E. Red Cedars? Buffaloberry, Skunkbush Sumac, or Caragana?

 

[espringers]

Anything that self propagates up here gets my vote. I've got 25 acres around my place that we decided to quit burning about 10 years ago. It's amazing how many trees have sprouted up since we quit putting fire to the place and I haven't planted a single new tree. Mostly boxelders I think. But, also a lot of shrubs and cedars as offshoots from the 5 row we planted when we first moved in in 2005.

 

[espringers]

Mostly slough/wetlands edges. Which is why we used to burn it.

 

[Tymurrey]

I don't water any of my tree rows, i don't have the time or the setup to do it. With that said, my junipers and cedars that the soil conservation planted look better after a couple of years than the ones i hand planted with no fabric do after a decade. Caraganas grow fast and seem to do well, buffaloberry has been hit or miss with me. It seems like a lot die compared to other trees but that is also because the shrubs are planted at twice the amount due to the closer spacing. I plan on about 40% die off the first year and then reduce it by half each year after that with fabric and no water or care other than some herbicide in spring going into pasture ground. If i were you in your situation i would either plant next to the old rows or plant between them to give the renter room to still farm and wait to remove the old ones until the new ones are big enough. If going into cropland you could get some really good (100% or close) cost share on the new rows. You have the opportunity to have some fun by planting new and leaving the old which you won't lose any hunting ground and minimal loss in cropland.

 

[SupressYourself]

Thoughts on Rocky Mountain Junipers over E. Red Cedars?

They're about the same difference. RMJ are supposed to be a little more drought tolerant, but don't get quite as big. I've planted them interchangeably at the farm.

I agree with adding a new row (or several ) alongside the existing rows, and spring for the weed barrier fabric. Yes, you'll lose some tillable ground. It's only money...
As mentioned earlier, get in touch with your local soil conservation district. Likely you can get some significant cost sharing for the planting.

 

[Lycanthrope]

I have been planting a lot of trees lately and have found that some species really require fertilizer to get going in the soil at my land. The native pasture was VERY low in N and P. Once I started adding some fertilizer every spring, things really took off. Theres a facebook group thats helpful for people wanting to start new plantings in areas that are hard to maintain called 'trees from seed'. The owner of the group posts helpful tips and videos quite often. Careful with pines and the like, they often cannot tolerate much N, I made the mistake of hitting my ponderosa when I was starting to fertilize and it didnt kill them, but they didnt like it much. Ive had good luck with hackberry and aronia, they both grow well without a lot of care and also provide good fruit for wildlife. Use roundup to kill the native grass, if you are serious also put down a weed barrier around your new trees for a couple years, that will help them compete and give a better chance to survive. I use the woven 6ft fabric you can buy, cut a 6x6 square, or better yet, melt it so the sides dont fray, hold it on the ground with 4 staples in the corners, before you put it down mow the grass short and ideally kill it off about a week before you mow and put the fabric down with roundup.

 

[Tymurrey]

One thing I’ve been doing with the single trees and small rows I’ve been hand planting around the farm is putting a fabric square down and then an old tire on top. Helps keeping me from getting close to the tree with weed eaters and tillers and such and holds the fabric down nice. I will have to look into some fertilizer, I know the soil test I did in my food plot when I broke it up was decent but that’s not to say it was good enough to get the trees to take off and make it through the first couple tough years. If a guy can afford it the cheap tree tubes have been working great for me. I use the blue plastic sheet ones a lot.

 

[701FishSlayer]

Just do the future farmer a favor and til that shit up.

 

[fireone]

If you are using the County Soil Conservation to plant evergreens make sure the trees are far enough apart, like 20' or more. Branches touching are the kiss of death because the trees need the air circulation around them to prevent disease.

 

[Lycanthrope]

If you are using the County Soil Conservation to plant evergreens make sure the trees are far enough apart, like 20' or more. Branches touching are the kiss of death because the trees need the air circulation around them to prevent disease.

They charge the same no matter how close or far apart they are planted, so I would have them plant at the recommended spacing and then once they are established, either cut them out as they get too big, or move them. Its not too expensive to rent a skid with a tree mover for a day or two and move a lot of trees yourself.

 

[Traxion]

Thanks for the ideas and help! I have about 40 acres that I hope to convert fully in the next 10 years. Add on to the existing rows as stated with about 8 rows wide. Polinator plot, another 20 of grass and some foot plots. That isn't immediate though. The other areas I want to do aren't tilled (old farmyard and machinery areas) but I am going to see where we'd be with the Conservation Service. The remaining rows will just be hand plants and supplementing spots here and there. If we can get some small boxes of trees and shrubs to hold a few birds that is fine.

Our 5 row was planted in the early 2000's right before things got really dry. It's pathetic to say the least and never really took off. I'm nervous about the same thing happening again. It has fabric on all rows....yet some of the cedars are still 16" tall. Never got enough moisture to get going.

 

[Tymurrey]

towner state nursery has about the cheapest trees you will find but need to order in larger lots. shipping can get a guy depending on how many you order but still cheap.

 

[Lycanthrope]

Thanks for the ideas and help! I have about 40 acres that I hope to convert fully in the next 10 years. Add on to the existing rows as stated with about 8 rows wide. Polinator plot, another 20 of grass and some foot plots. That isn't immediate though. The other areas I want to do aren't tilled (old farmyard and machinery areas) but I am going to see where we'd be with the Conservation Service. The remaining rows will just be hand plants and supplementing spots here and there. If we can get some small boxes of trees and shrubs to hold a few birds that is fine.

Our 5 row was planted in the early 2000's right before things got really dry. It's pathetic to say the least and never really took off. I'm nervous about the same thing happening again. It has fabric on all rows....yet some of the cedars are still 16" tall. Never got enough moisture to get going.

If you have 40 acres, check with your county soil conservation district. In burleigh they will put down fabric and plant trees VERY cheap, outdoor heritage fund pays 75% of the cost