Using leaders for cranks?



Enslow

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Titanium leaders are where its at. As stated earlier vmc and terminators are the best. Walleyes are not shy of titanium.
 

Sum1

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Make my own with the a 5" peice of the uncoated wire. Don't need heavy duty wire, just some braided wire that doesnt hinder the action of even the lightest cranks. You can get all the stuff at Dakota Tackle. If a nasty northern gets it all kinked up, they are cheap enough to make you can toss them and grab a new one.
 

dean nelson

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Titanium leaders are where its at. As stated earlier vmc and terminators are the best. Walleyes are not shy of titanium.
True but I don't ever want to get to the point that loosing the leader costs me more then loosing the lure!
 

svnmag

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I don't run leaders with cranks, but I have heard good things about this tie-able titanium leader material. Might work for your situation. Good Luck!!

I got tired of loosing cranks. I use leaders period (with plugs) and don't believe there's a measurable detriment to walleye/smallmouth strikes: I'm talking Audubon and Tailrace. The key IMHO is to keep them sleek and unobtrusive. When I first embarked on this profound life path; I replaced the snap on Eagle Claw steel then evolved into assembling my own like any true fishing expert. I've been using Terminator tie-able for a couple years. IMHE, one can tie better knots with a coated Eagle Claw. I know this true as I used to do it in the South for shark after I removed the clip. Never tried a Palomar due to satisfaction with the Trilene. I don't believe a Palomar would work anyways; too much stress on the metal.

Two things of note with the tie-able titanium: A knot cannot be cinched; there's a big skeleton deal attached to your presentation which I ASSume compresses and rebounds like a funky ball of tits from outer space. B: It seems to work harden after a while and will snap like a glass rod during a cast. I haven't determined the measurements of a "while" other than when I feel there may be closely looming failure: I replace and harvest/discard the saltwater hardware after inspection. (Never been concerned about the swivel; usually just replace the snap.)

This flourocarbon intrigues me and I plan on dicking around with it. There are diameter issues which may require larger hardware negating my sleek/unobtrusive "concept". Imagine the moonshine clear bass waters in California etc. I guess you go light or go at night. The Tailrace is clear enough for me.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=O94CW_tIEzU
 
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svnmag

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I don't understand the advantage Short. Those are VERY similar to my home rolled except for the large dumbass snap?...
 

shorthairsrus

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I have some of that tiable stuff -- haven't tried it -- I will though based what u said
 

Sum1

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Thats the reason I started making my own. The commercially made leaders use oversized everything. Especially the swivel and snaps that hinder a cranks action. Use the small swivels and snaps. Pike teeth can cut mono, braid and floro fairly easy. Even 20lb braided wire pike teeth will NOT cut through.
 

SDMF

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leader.jpeg

 


svnmag

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Watch those things Mr. Horsey! I'm telling you they WILL snap without warning! I haven't found an indication this was about to happen other than a few days casting and a swag. In fact, I'm considering going back to black coated steel. At least it's obvious when a change is needed like after every other freaking pike...

Would someone please re-post the link to these type snaps? I have one on the main line and another on the the end. I've considered a dbl swivel configuration on my home rolled but determined this necessary.

th


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th
 

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