house/basement leveling

[Captain Ahab]

Remove the good stuff and start lighting cigars again. Preferably in a polyester chair.

 

[Bed Wetter]

Uh. No

Springers will let you know when he needs advice sewing curtains.

 

[2400]

I think you should have shit load of BBQ and a kids swimming pool full of beer and get the guys on here to show up and help on a long weekend.


What could go wrong? ;:;popcorn

 

[johnr]

Is this the only home available in Tuscany?

 

[Bed Wetter]

I think you should have shit load of BBQ and a kids swimming pool full of beer and get the guys on here to show up and help on a long weekend.


What could go wrong? ;:;popcorn

“We started off measuring and leveling things and before we knew it the 5th wheel became a 4th story hunting stand/poker room.”

 

[SDMF]

i sort of did this for my house when i remodeled the basement. mine has a support wall running down the center lengthwise and it slopes about an inch in 15 feet on the east and west sides. caused by the cinderblock bowing in. not quite the same as you cause my basement floor is level. but, if you are ok with the basement floor being unlevel for now, i would take a big old beam or two or three, run it (or them) the length of the sagging side. get some of those screw jacks take some pressure off the sagging concrete support wall, try to cut whatever it is that is connecting the sill to the concrete with a sawsall or something cooler like one of those big old concrete metal wet saw thingys cause i assume there might be some rebar or other anchors tieing the sill to the concrete, jack it up until level and insert the necessary wood to fill the gap you created. remove braces and jack and set it down. problem with that is you are going to have a pie or triangle shape gap running at the ends from one end to the other that will be hard to adequately fill to provide true support for the sill and the concrete. a long triangle piece going from 2 inches to nothing over the course of 10-20 feet will be hard to cut. but not impossible. this is assuming its done settling. also, would have to figure out a way to tie the new stuff to the sill after setting back down. but, figure some metal strappy thingamajjiggers would work..

on mine, all i had to do was take the pressure off the existing walls and put an interior wall up to support support the existing weight and prevent future bowing of the wall.

have fun!

This would be worth watching Guy try, just to see WTF he came up with to make the 2" x 30' pie piece.

 

[johnr]

Is it leaning to the left, like the rest of Fargo?

 

[NDwalleyes]

This and walk away.

 

[tikkalover]

Up the insurance and then.................

 

[Traxion]

Gypcrete isn't fun to deal with. And even though it is lightweight you are still adding a lot of dead load to a probably already stretched set of joists. Leveling with joists on top can work, though you are going to end up with areas that are less than the thickness of your new subfloor that will need to be leveled with some sort of self leveling compound. It takes A LOT of that stuff to fill in areas, way more than you think.

Generally speaking sinking is much, much easier to fix than uplifting. Uplifting usually involves expansive soils, which gets ugly. However, given the soils in that area I can't imagine that sinking is going to be cheap if your start talking piers!

 

[LBrandt]

And your floor drain is on the high end?

 

[huntinforfish]

In regards to leveling compound on floor, could a guy add a thicker sub floor in areas that are the lowest? Thinking going from 1" board or thicker down to standard thickness to reduce the amount of material needed.

 

[guywhofishes]

And your floor drain is on the high end?

I installed new floor drains on the low side when wife and I put drain tile in.

Yes - huntinforfish - that's the current plan. Leveling in 6" wide sections with depth guides built of ripped 2x's. 1.5" on one end ripped down to 0" on the other... tapered to match the necessary depth.

Prefilling those zones in with various depths of subfloor necessary to reduce leveling material.

 

[huntinforfish]

I installed new floor drains on the low side when wife and I put drain tile in.

Yes - huntinforfish - that's the current plan. Leveling in 6" wide sections with depth guides built of ripped 2x's. 1.5" on one end ripped down to 0" on the other... tapered to match the necessary depth.

Prefilling those zones in with various depths of subfloor necessary to reduce leveling material.

Exactly what I was thinking but much more articulate from your finger tips! Best of luck with this project.

 

[guywhofishes]

*16” widths (to make leveling/troweling “automatic”)

 

[SDMF]

I'd pay to have Grandbabywhosnorkels flown up here and turn the little bugger loose w/some paint and call it abstract art.

No straight lines, no 2" problem.

 

[guywhofishes]

but Grampa will know

and Royce’s Kong balls will roll past me and settle soundly into the west wall

thus ruining my Pusser’s/Q

therefore I am forced to level it or forever shake my head

 

[Bed Wetter]

but Grampa will know

and Royce’s Kong balls will roll past me and settle soundly into the west wall

thus ruining my Pusser’s/Q

therefore I am forced to level it or forever shake my head

Just skimmed this comment and “Kong balls” and “Pussers” jumped out at me. “What the hell kind of rec room does he have down there?”

 

[Lungdeflator]

I leveled out the upstairs of our house when we did a complete remodel. Tore the floor down to the original wood flooring. Measured the drop from one end to the other, then ripped 2x4s at an angle to compensate. Laid down new subfloor on top of those and everything was level. Probably the cheapest and easiest way to do it. More of a mask though, not really fixing the problem. We also measured the drop every 16", so every cut was unique and careful.