Arrow Building

[Wags2.0]

Ive gone down a rabbit hole i am starting to regret. So many options and opinions! What is everyone shooting for arrows? Length, weight, vanes, etc.

Just made a few 4 fletch to try out on 300 spine axis 5mm, 75 grain insert, with 100 grain tips. Ive always just shot whatever came factory (3 blazer vanes, and factory insert).

Trying to find that sweet spot of a heavy-ish arrow but maintain enough speed to shoot out to 50-60 comfortably without really lobbing them in there.

 

[guywhofishes]

When I bought my bow 7-8 yrs ago the guy at Sportsman's put together a system. When I run low due to lost arrows (or deer that run off with them stuck in their antlers), I just copy those.

Broadheads land in same place as field points out to 50.... that's beyond what I need. I'm not changing a damn thing.

The standard blazers, 500 spine Beman ICS Bowhunter. nothing special.

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60 or 65 lb I think?

 

[SupressYourself]

I went 'full retard' on the heavy arrow thing, and shoot a 620 grain 250 spine Victory Extorsion.

They are hammers for sure (3 out of 3 pass-throughs: 2 deer, 1 elk), but past 50 yards you really need to know your yardage because they drop off in a hurry.

I'm now playing around with 300 spine Black Eagle Rampage shafts, shooting for a 500-ish grain finished arrow with higher FOC.
In both cases, I'm using 3 fletch with Blazers, but configured in a right-hand helical. Those seem to work just fine with a 125 grain Magnus Black Hornet.

 

[powerman]

Ive gone down a rabbit hole i am starting to regret. So many options and opinions! What is everyone shooting for arrows? Length, weight, vanes, etc.

Just made a few 4 fletch to try out on 300 spine axis 5mm, 75 grain insert, with 100 grain tips. Ive always just shot whatever came factory (3 blazer vanes, and factory insert).

Trying to find that sweet spot of a heavy-ish arrow but maintain enough speed to shoot out to 50-60 comfortably without really lobbing them in there.

My new arrows are very similar to yours. Easton axis, 4 vane, 50gr brass insert, and 100 gr point.

 

[ndbwhunter]

I went 'full retard' on the heavy arrow thing, and shoot a 620 grain 250 spine Victory Extorsion.

They are hammers for sure (3 out of 3 pass-throughs: 2 deer, 1 elk), but past 50 yards you really need to know your yardage because they drop off in a hurry.

I'm now playing around with 300 spine Black Eagle Rampage shafts, shooting for a 500-ish grain finished arrow with higher FOC.
In both cases, I'm using 3 fletch with Blazers, but configured in a right-hand helical. Those seem to work just fine with a 125 grain Magnus Black Hornet.

I'm running a similar setup with the BE rampage 200 spine. Arrows are 29 - 29.5" (can't remember) with a 50 grain BE insert and 100 grain tip. I'm right at 500 grains at 285fps with a 31" draw.

 

[Whisky]

Easton Axis Match 300 - 28.25"
Easton Nock
2" Blazer 3 fletch
Iron Will Ti collar
Iron Will SS 50gr Insert
Iron Will 100gr FP/S100

Total arrow weight 505gr
28.5" DL @ 72lbs
Speed - 260fps
FOC % - 14.8

Pretty durable setup. Only ran 1 season so far. Killed an elk and a deer.
Accuracy/tuneability = phenomenal.
Worth the money? T.B.D.

 

[Wags2.0]

Easton Axis Match 300 - 28.25"
Easton Nock
2" Blazer 3 fletch
Iron Will Ti collar
Iron Will SS 50gr Insert
Iron Will 100gr FP/S100

Total arrow weight 505gr
28.5" DL @ 72lbs
Speed - 260fps
FOC % - 14.8

Pretty durable setup. Only ran 1 season so far. Killed an elk and a deer.
Accuracy/tuneability = phenomenal.
Worth the money? T.B.D.

I think a little over 500 is where id like to be. Im curious how the 4 vanes work out and if there's even a noticeable difference (supposedly 4 vane will stabilize broadheads better). The iron will components look nice!

 

[Whisky]

I think a little over 500 is where id like to be. Im curious how the 4 vanes work out and if there's even a noticeable difference (supposedly 4 vane will stabilize broadheads better). The iron will components look nice!

I've never played with 4 fletch, so no opinion there. Are you experiencing accuracy issues with BH?

 

[Wags2.0]

I've never played with 4 fletch, so no opinion there. Are you experiencing accuracy issues with BH?

Yea a little. Ive shot g5 montecs for years. My last bow they shot the same impact as field points. This bow they just dont shoot consistently good. I should maybe try some different BH's but they've always worked. Last time i shot them was with 340 axis with 50 grain inserts. arrows cut at 28.25" so maybe slightly under spined?

See! this is the damn rabbit hole ive scurried down! Ha!

 

[.204]

Home - Annihilator Broadheads | An evolution in broadhead efficiency.

 

[powerman]

When I tested the g5's I would get a flyer out of every 3 arrows and I couldn't figure out why. I went down the rabbit hole this year to try and gain more energy with a 26" dl.

What tuning method are you using to get you fp and bh to shoot together?

 

[Whisky]

It's a frustrating, never-ending rabbit hole, with a shit ton of variables. I honestly hate it! But then, I'm not an expert at it either.

I guess the first question is, where are your BH's hitting in relation to the FP? I assume you've probably looked into BH tuning already, and possibly adjusted your center shot or nock height based off that? What kind of bow?

 

[Wags2.0]

When I tested the g5's I would get a flyer out of every 3 arrows and I couldn't figure out why. I went down the rabbit hole this year to try and gain more energy with a 26" dl.

What tuning method are you using to get you fp and bh to shoot together?

I’ve never broadhead tuned! Haha. I really wasn’t overly concerned with it until I got more serious 5 or so years ago and at the time and with that bow the montecs shot same spot as field tips

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It's a frustrating, never-ending rabbit hole, with a shit ton of variables. I honestly hate it! But then, I'm not an expert at it either.

I guess the first question is, where are your BH's hitting in relation to the FP? I assume you've probably looked into BH tuning already, and possibly adjusted your center shot or nock height based off that? What kind of bow?

they hit low and left, and the groups aren’t great. I adjusted my sight over a few clicks and shot an Ok group at 40 and called it good. I ended up killing a small buck at 19 yards with it.

my bow is a Mathews vxr 31.5” 29.25” draw. 72lb draw weight

 

[muzzyhunter]

Yea a little. Ive shot g5 montecs for years. My last bow they shot the same impact as field points. This bow they just dont shoot consistently good. I should maybe try some different BH's but they've always worked. Last time i shot them was with 340 axis with 50 grain inserts. arrows cut at 28.25" so maybe slightly under spined?

See! this is the damn rabbit hole ive scurried down! Ha!

You could spin test your broadheads,probably fine,or put your bow on a drawboard to check your cam timing,especially if it wont paper tune to a perfect bullet hole.

 

[bucksnbears]

There are SO many variables in shooting an arrow.
I've chased every "rabbit" there is but I've settled on an Easton axis 340, shooting 60lbs at 27".
After reflecting them with feathers and a good helical, I doubt I'll ever shoot plastic vanes again.

And good/old Muzzy 100 heads have been in my quiver for 30 years.
I see no reason to change.
Shooting a deer at 30 yards does not require the time n effort it does to shoot a prairie dog at 500 yards.
Most misses/poor hits are our fault..

 

[ndbwhunter]

When I tested the g5's I would get a flyer out of every 3 arrows and I couldn't figure out why. I went down the rabbit hole this year to try and gain more energy with a 26" dl.

What tuning method are you using to get you fp and bh to shoot together?

Shoot fp and bh groups at 20-30 yards. 4 arrows with 2 of each tip. Note the impact location of the bh and make micro adjustments to the rest (horizontal/vertical) to bring them together. Be sure to make very small adjustments.

 

[Whisky]

I’ve never broadhead tuned! Haha. I really wasn’t overly concerned with it until I got more serious 5 or so years ago and at the time and with that bow the montecs shot same spot as field tips

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they hit low and left, and the groups aren’t great. I adjusted my sight over a few clicks and shot an Ok group at 40 and called it good. I ended up killing a small buck at 19 yards with it.

my bow is a Mathews vxr 31.5” 29.25” draw. 72lb draw weight

You really need to BH tune. The further out you can consistently do it, the better.. BH tuning would be of much greater importance than experimenting with different fletching configurations IMO. Your left BH impact indicates a stiff spine (which is Ok, better than weak), and the low impact indicates a high nock point. Personally I think your current arrows are Ok spine.

For BH tuning, you will see multiple methods to skin the cat. Also, for the same method, you will see contradicting advice as well. It's pretty much trial and error. One company will tell you to move the rest left to correct your left impact, the other will say to move it right. I can tell you that I've had to do the opposite of what I thought was right to get the results I wanted.

So, first thing to do is correct the vertical. You should make note or take pictures of your exact starting point before making any rest adjustments. Then I would move my rest UP in very tiny increments and see if I can bring BH and FP closer on the vertical. This should be the easy one to fix.

Next is horizontal, and this is where you will move the rest one way, and if it doesn't work or gets worse, go back to starting point, and try the other direction. BH hitting left, I would start by moving the rest LEFT, away from the bow, again in very small increments. If you see progress, keep going. If not, go back to starting point and move the rest right.

I'm really unfamiliar with that bow, so I don't know what the proper starting point for cam timing and cam lean should be. You may need to research and check that out as well. Normally that would be done first. Then paper turn. Then BH tune. Another important thing to check is fletching clearance.

 

[SDMF]

27" 2413's, 100gn Spitfire. Godness I'm a dinosaur.

 

[Wags2.0]

You really need to BH tune. The further out you can consistently do it, the better.. BH tuning would be of much greater importance than experimenting with different fletching configurations IMO. Your left BH impact indicates a stiff spine (which is Ok, better than weak), and the low impact indicates a high nock point. Personally I think your current arrows are Ok spine.

For BH tuning, you will see multiple methods to skin the cat. Also, for the same method, you will see contradicting advice as well. It's pretty much trial and error. One company will tell you to move the rest left to correct your left impact, the other will say to move it right. I can tell you that I've had to do the opposite of what I thought was right to get the results I wanted.

So, first thing to do is correct the vertical. You should make note or take pictures of your exact starting point before making any rest adjustments. Then I would move my rest UP in very tiny increments and see if I can bring BH and FP closer on the vertical. This should be the easy one to fix.

Next is horizontal, and this is where you will move the rest one way, and if it doesn't work or gets worse, go back to starting point, and try the other direction. BH hitting left, I would start by moving the rest LEFT, away from the bow, again in very small increments. If you see progress, keep going. If not, go back to starting point and move the rest right.

I'm really unfamiliar with that bow, so I don't know what the proper starting point for cam timing and cam lean should be. You may need to research and check that out as well. Normally that would be done first. Then paper turn. Then BH tune. Another important thing to check is fletching clearance.

Yes i agree i will broadhead tune. Just never had the need to do it until now (got lucky i guess). I paper tuned in august when i bought this new bow and it tuned super easy. Shot good with it for a few weeks practicing out to 60 yards, then i spun my broadheads on and began scratching my head.

I started the arrow building as more of something fun to do and experiment with stuff. Not necessarily as an end all fix with broadheads. Up until this batch of .300 spine arrows i had been shooting 340 axis arrows with 50 grains up front, and same 100 grain montecs.

Will shoot them tomorrow and see how it all goes. Thank you for the advice!

 

[espringers]

this seems weird to me. i would think that any rest movement is going to change the impact of both the FP and BH in the same direction. how in the world would it bring their grouping closer? not that i've ever done it. but, that's what i envision betwixt my earholes.