Deck advice for guy

guywhofishes

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Hey craftsmen - I'm going to get a new deck built. I'm getting quotes.

crude drawing below
deck.jpg

Here in the red river valley we have evil expansive clays that shrink/expand with moisture.

The deck not too far off the ground - whatever the max height without rails is allowed (can't recall). The door at right is lower than the slider at left - so we'll have a threshold for the slider door.

I am wanting top-of-the-line composite decking (unless I shouldn't be?)

I want to build this thing ONCE.

What brand/model of composite should I get?

Do I need footings down to frost or can it be freestanding? (yes - it's attached to the house on those two sides)

What type/density of footings? Bare posts to below frost? Posts sitting on concrete footings that are below frost?

Amy other advise is appreciated. I live in the big $hitty and don't want to get scoundreled. :)
 


LBrandt

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First kill all blood sucking creatures so that you can enjoy said deck. LB
 

espringers

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None of my decks have footings and all are connected to the house. Rentals and home. I suppose the right way would be those sleeve things. But, these have all held up great and I've never seen heaving or had to adjust them. Almost seems like footings done wrong would invite more problems that would be more difficult to fix than not having footings. My 2 cents.
 


shorthairsrus

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trex decking - i bought some upgraded stuff from lowes - they had to order if i remember correctly. It never faded --- looked like new. I built it to hold my truck on it.

then i sold the house and bougtht one that somebody did a half ass job with menards cheapy shit.
 

risingsun

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I have done 3 decks. Never attached any due to the ground shifting/ frost heaving etc. Only did one composite, which had wedge type hold downs and were a total PIA, so it all got drilled out and used screws. I also used the cement bases that a 4 x 4 slides into. They have worked well with no issues. And if you ever do have an issue, as noted in above post, it takes more to fix the issue if footing underground. With the cement bases, you can easily shim up or down as needed. Something like this. https://www.menards.com/main/buildi...9-c-5647.htm?tid=-6833930683758702544&ipos=20
 

NDwalleyes

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Normally decks that are not attached to the house (free-floating) do not require footings. Generally if you are less than 29" you above grade, you don't need a railing. I would contact your local city inspections/permit office. They normally have a document that will outline the building code for decks in your city. It will tell you the required size/length for stringers based on your span, cantilever overhand limits, step rise and run, etc.

Whatever you do, build it to code. It is common that deck construction causes issues when houses get sold if they are underbuilt and railings/footings are not to code.
 


tikkalover

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What's this code thingy you are talking about?? ;:;rofl

I've put 2 decks on my house. They are attached to the house sill plate with 6" lag screws. On the edge away from the house every 4' I put cement blocks on top of the ground with short 4x4s down to those to level it up.
Front deck is 8'x20'. Frame work is 2"x8" treated lumber. Top of deck is 10" off the ground. Back deck is 12'x28'. Frame work is 2"x10" treated lumber. Top of deck is 10" off the ground on one end and 20" on the other end. Joists on both are 16" on center.

I used Ultradecking, (the solid kind), I think the color is red cedar, on the back deck (north side of house)but used the middle grade and it has faded over the years. :(Attached it with the T clips. It has a white vinyl railing on it.

Front deck (south side of house)has cedar on it but it has weathered over the years and will soon be replaced with a better grade of Trex decking. That also has a cedar railing on it.

I don't need railing on either one but IMO a deck looks naked without a railing.
 
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muzzyhunter

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I would build 12" oc,instead of 16"oc,alot have a minimum of 16"oc,but composite seems a little spongy,especially in hot weather.12 will give you a very solid deck.
 

sl1000794

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I would build 12" oc,instead of 16"oc,alot have a minimum of 16"oc, but composite seems a little spongy, especially in hot weather. 12 will give you a very solid deck.

^^^^^What he said^^^^^
Also if you entertain much you could have more people on it on the 2 days/evenings it is nice enough to be outside and the extra support would pay off!:;:
 

zoops

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If you trim the bushes around your deck, it makes your deck look bigger.
 

bucksnbears

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Check Fargo codes for footings. If attached to a house with a basement, I'm sure you will need to put footings below frost line.
Composite in a corner will get HOT if facing south/west..
Also think about how much snow will accumulate there. At that level, you may not be able to open the storm door in winter.
I much prefer 5/4 cedar over any composite.
 


Up Y'oars

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Shorter spans for the decking is a good decision. Even at 12" OC I notice more sponge feeling than with my old pine deck. I went composite last summer. It's amazing that a few days after install (at 70 degrees) it all measured perfectly on the corners and then the next week when it hit the 50's the corner cuts shrunk a good 1/4" apart (we built the outside into a picture frame and the decking inside of the outter planks).
 

BP338

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You shouldn't need railing. 30" and higher require railing.

I would free float that sucker if you are on clay. Just build it on the ground on blocks.

Don't forget to lay a good weed barrier down under it too. I like gravel under my decks as well. Just seems tidy to me.

I second the 12" OC for your joists.

I would span the joists about 6' and hanger them onto the beams or 2x's, whatever you use for support on your posts. That way you stay as low as possible and your beams stay as high as possible off the ground. Then place your post supports every 6' supporting your beams. there are different ways of connecting the beams to the posts as well.

You can use 4x4 ground treated posts on top of post blocks then double 2x8's for your beams under and a single for your ledger around the outside. Then use 2x6's for your joists. All your other lumber might as well be treated too. It'll cost a bit more but it will last longer and might be needed depending on the height off the ground. Anything under 18" will need to be treated.

Some inspectors will accept blocking in between the joists at the beams and ledgers in place of hangers. You'd just have to ask. Hangers can be dangerous to fingers when working in limited space.

- - - Updated - - -

Oh, I prefer using a 6x6 for my posts. 4x4's look like that tall skinny kid that you always feel like they're going to break a bone when they jump or run...you can attach the 2x8's better to a 6x6.
 

guywhofishes

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Check Fargo codes for footings. If attached to a house with a basement, I'm sure you will need to put footings below frost line.
Composite in a corner will get HOT if facing south/west..
Also think about how much snow will accumulate there. At that level, you may not be able to open the storm door in winter.
I much prefer 5/4 cedar over any composite.

Thanks.

It faces southeast - so that corner warms up quickly until early afternoon then shade would kick in. Ideal in a way. Cool in the evenings and afternoons in that corner.

I live north of Fargo - not in city limits. It's a poured basement (Camrud Foss) and has only a few hairline cracks - but the entire basement has shifted off level due to wasting of the Red River a hundred yards away. So the basement/house does shift with time/season. So maybe a deck on footings would make things worse than floating it?

Snow is an issue - so that's why I'm planning on low with no railings so I can get the snow off with a plastic shovel.

Is composite superior to cedar for snow removal? Less chance of scarring/wear?
 

Wallike

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If you trim the bushes around your deck, it makes your deck look bigger.

OMG! One of the funniest Foxworthy group skits of all time!

- - - Updated - - -

There is only one down side to composite decking IMO. It gets hotter than wood in direct sunlight. Rugs help with that. Wood - looks good for a while but the maintenance is worth the extra dollars to go composite.
 


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