Shop construction

[Achucker]

I would like to get opinions of type of construction for a shop. Post frame (Pole barn) or 2x6.

 

[lunkerslayer]

What's the Building going to function as?

 

[Achucker]

Storage, man cave, workshop.

 

[lunkerslayer]

If you're going to use steel sheet siding post frame
If you're going to use anything else 2x6 is the first choice i would use.
How big is the building also is it two levels

 

[Captain Ahab]

What's the Building going to function as?

Shelter.

 

[jer79]

2x6 is easier to insulate and gonna last longer, your doors are gonna work better longer etc, if its on a good slab with a thickened edge etc.,but, none of us have a money-tree in the backyard.so, I guess build what fits your budget if I was gonna build a pole shed for myself I would plan on spending about 2.50 a square foot for spray foam on walls, maybe you won't heat it...then you'd prob save quite a bit with a pole building because you woulden't have to finish the inside or hang liner panel on the ceiling so you can blow in insulation, if you didn't want to and theres quite a bit less lumber.if you wanna wait to pour the floor in the shop til you save up some more cash, then you would want a pole. pole buildings are considerably cheaper. I would stay away from 8 foot on center rafters, someone might give you a really good material bid and that might be one of the reasons why it is much cheaper.. I guess if I could afford it i'd go 2x6. I would absolutely go with floor heat if you plan to heat it though. of course,are you talkin 32x40 or 60x120? that will probably be the biggest influence in you decision.

 

[lunkerslayer]

Shelter.

Storm shelter
Bomb shelter
Refuge shelter
Animal shelter
???
No he gave me his answer it's going to be a storage, workshop, man cave
Huge difference then just a shelter or a shop to many variables

 

[deleted member]

My next one will be onr of those arched steel buildings. They seem to last forever and dont need full footings.

 

[NDwalleyes]

My next one will be onr of those arched steel buildings. They seem to last forever and dont need full footings.

A Quonset.

 

[deleted member]

Lol. Ya. Pretty much. They make a few different styles though other than a semi circle. Every darn one you see appears to be straight as the day they went up. And they go up relatively easy.

 

[NDwalleyes]

Ugly as hell, but easy to find used and will survive a tornado.

 

[BrokenBackJack]

Spray foam the inside of them and they are a great building and seem to last forever and hail doesn't hurt them either.

 

[eyexer]

If your going to do it complete from the get go meaning concrete, insulate, sheetrock etc. than by all means go 2x6. It's a no brainer. If your going to do it a little at a time then post frame would probably make more sense.

 

[Mort]

Do as much of it as you can also, that will help on some of the cost.

 

[Achucker]

I would definitely do foam insulation. I've heard that this would actually add strength. If a pole building was done rafters would be no less than 4 ft on center. I would do floor heat (electric mats) just not sure on how it would work without having an insulated foundation wall. The size I was looking at was 40x62 with a third of it walled off and uninsulated. I would probably do all work myself except concrete and spray foam.

 

[raider]

old spray foamer here...

me??? slab on grade with 6' footings- stagger frame 2x4 studs 12" on center with 2x6 top and bottom plates - conventional roof trusses 4' on center with the tops encapsulated in foam... if no codes - 3" in everything - if commercial codes apply, 3" in the walls and 5" in the roof... skip the floor heat... one concrete heave or crack and a broken line and you will likely shut off your 4-$10 per sf system cuz it's too expensive to fix... put the money into CLOSED CELL FOAM and mid sized recovery heaters...cover with rock or intumescent coating or a good latex paint...

do this and you have just built an upside down swimming pool, and as strong a building as you can buy...

frame it - foam it - fuck it...

good luck...

 

[Achucker]

old spray foamer here...

me??? slab on grade with 6' footings- stagger frame 2x4 studs 12" on center with 2x6 top and bottom plates - conventional roof trusses 4' on center with the tops encapsulated in foam... if no codes - 3" in everything - if commercial codes apply, 3" in the walls and 5" in the roof... skip the floor heat... one concrete heave or crack and a broken line and you will likely shut off your 4-$10 per sf system cuz it's too expensive to fix... put the money into CLOSED CELL FOAM and mid sized recovery heaters...cover with rock or intumescent coating or a good latex paint...

do this and you have just built an upside down swimming pool, and as strong a building as you can buy...

frame it - foam it - fuck it...

good luck...

The floor heat I have in mind does not go in concrete. It is a concrete pad (3×6) that sets in 12" of sand. Then concrete is put on top. Same system the DOT has been putting in their shops the last couple of years. And they drive some pretty heavy trucks on it with no issues.

 

[Kurtr]

What is that system I am sceptical first because the sand and second remember dot do everything on low bid not high quality. If you do it right concrete won't heave it will crack as that is why you saw cut it. Have done hundreds of shop floors for farmers with in floor and never had a problem as long as it is done right.

 

[Achucker]

Here is the floor heat system

http://thesmartestheat.com/earth-thermal-storage-electric-radiant-heating-systems/

This system is supposed to be more efficient than hydronic. If one area of sand is below set point then only a few pads will heat instead of the entire floor or zone. I have worked on these and talked to several farmers who have them and they are very satisfied and no issues (yet).
Must have off peak metering though otherwise too expensive. Like any electric heat.

 

[eyexer]

My next one will be onr of those arched steel buildings. They seem to last forever and dont need full footings.

depends on who you talk to in regard to the footings lol.

- - - Updated - - -

The floor heat I have in mind does not go in concrete. It is a concrete pad (3×6) that sets in 12" of sand. Then concrete is put on top. Same system the DOT has been putting in their shops the last couple of years. And they drive some pretty heavy trucks on it with no issues.

and you have to put foam under that headed pad or a pile of the heat just goes in the ground. Honestly, once you put the insulation under the concrete there really isn't a need for the heat in the floor. Use forced air propane or whatever. The cement takes on the temp of the room and the heat has to stay in the concrete. Then when the furnace kicks off the heat in the slab is released back into the room and not into the ground. You have much faster recovery with forced air too. It's poor man's in floor heat lol. I've been doing that to basement floors for many years along with ICFS foundations. The basements are so damn warm you have to close nearly all the ducts down there.

- - - Updated - - -

If I was going to build a framed up shop with a 4' frost wall and was going to spray foam the walls and ceilings I would just build the whole damn thing out of SIP's panels and be done with it. Building would go up in a day and the whole inside would already be lined with osb and could be painted whatever color you want. Electrical conduit runs can be put into the foam walls/ceiling anywhere you want em. Then you get 5" of wall foam and 9" of ceiling foam. And strong as hell. Or go with ICFS walls and SIPS or conventional roof.