Enclosed Trailer advice

johnr

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I have sold my 16ft dual axle utility trailer to make room for an enclosed trailer. I am tired of getting to the lake in the winter and the ranger windshield is covered in slushy, muddy nonsense from the road.

I am wondering what to look for and what to stay away from.
I already know I am going to need to get the 7 ft wide, and the taller version to make sure everything fits, but just wondering about tie downs, lights, accessories that are a must, etc.

Hauling with the utility was rather simple, drive it on, strap it down and go.

Advice would be appreciated from you guys that have them
 


gonefshn

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Make sure it's a v-front. Otherwise on icy roads it's like pulling a parachute.
 

Kickemup

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I would go with a tandem axle also. That way you won't have worry about over loading.
 

Captain Ahab

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Door opening height will have to accommodate your rig as well. Also, if you plan on adding tracks the height of your machine will increase.
 

Tikka280ai

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a ramp door in the rear instead of the other style(cant think of the name off the top of my head). spare tire carrier or 2 as well as 15 inch tires/rims, 8 or 10 ply tires too a side door in the front to allow easy access to gear.
 


KDM

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Lights for the front and back of the interior will be worth their weight in gold. The single light in the middle throws shadows so you can't see anything worth a crap as you will be looking inside from outside most of the time and backing up into a dark shadow at night is less than entertaining. Also, put a light switch for the lights on both accesses (side door & ramp door) as when you want to turn the lights on or off you will INEVITABLY be at the wrong door. Recessed tie down points all around the perimeter of the interior will maximize usability of the trailer. You really can't have too many. Get a trailer that you can stand up in if you can. Head knocks SUCK!!! Wood or other NON SKID surface for the floor and ESPECIALLY the ramp door. Water, Snow, Slush, etc will make you bust your azz going in or out the ramp door. I'm sure I have more tidbits, but that's about it for now.
 

BrokenBackJack

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I have a 7x14' Aluma and a 7x16' HaulMark. Both are aluminum (Don't have to worry about rusting out) with torsion suspension, both V front, ramp rear doors, and can't remember if 6'' or 1' higher than normal, both insides are finished.. Have inside lights in both for at night and hold downs in floor plus added E Track down the center on the floor and on the walls up 1' from the floor and another up 3'-4' from the floor. Nice when hauling furniture or other items too. 7' wide was fine for our Ranger but it is kinda narrow for our General.
LED lights for sure and inside spare tire holder with spare tire of course.
Tandem axles too.
 
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Bauer

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Go east grasshopper. I purchased a Royal Cargo trailer from M&G Trailers in Ramsey MN, easily saved 700-1000 over compareables here. It is a well built trailer, 7x14 with a 7' Floor to ceiling height. I had a great experience working with the guys there. They had everything ready for me on a Saturday morning, 15 minutes to make sure it was what I wanted, another 15 to fill out paperwork and pay, 5 mins to hook up and I was gone. They even do advertising on Bis Man once in a while.

I used it to haul my Arctic Cat Prowler 1000. I opted to install myself the e-trak runs on the walls and floor. I can insert tie downs anywhere I would like, I can haul a fridge vertical or tie the prowler down with "over the tire" straps rather than ratcheting down the frame. I simply placed them right where the tires run in as well as about 4' up along each wall. The best place to purchase was uscargocontrol.com

V front is a must, adds just that extra room for maneuvering around to tie the rig down, I can even fit my clam sideways ahead of the prowler when I go ice fishing.

LED lights are the best way to go. I use mine for goose hunting as well so I attached a 40" LED lightbar above the walk in door and power it off a deep cycle battery I have in the trailer. Installed a on board single bank charger and all I have to do is plug it in and im ready for the next trip.

I do recommend getting the galvanized diamond plating on the v and 16" up each side. It really saves on the road rash.

Paint the floor with a good latex paint, it helps with oil spill cleanup

I bought the DIY herculiner and covered my ramp with it. Extra grip when going in and out in the winter time.

lastly. BUY A TOWTECTOR, you will appreciate doing it if you go to sell it later. That thin sheet metal will not stand up to the abuse from rocks on gravel roads, or 65mph down the highway. There is nothing worse than saving it from all the hail damage, only to have it looked like you shot marbles at the front out of a paint ball gun.
 
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shorthairsrus

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make sure it has a vent on the top, air conditioning, window or two -bunk or two --- in case if your place down in sturgis falls through:;:thumbsup
 

RustyTackleBox

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Get 8' or 8.5'... buddy has the 7' and if you are at all husky you are riding in that trailer to the destination can barley get the softside doors open on the sxs... hard doors would be an impossibility... and he only has about 1" clearance with his tracks going through the door
 


huntinforfish

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Lights inside and out. Brother in law installed a light bar on the back of his and it is great for packing up and unloading in the dark. Also works well for camping and goose hunting. I would also suggest shopping here in MN. Plenty of competition here that drives prices down. Long haul for you, but I believe a few of these dealers may ship west for you. Good luck.
 

gonefshn

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Door opening height will have to accommodate your rig as well. Also, if you plan on adding tracks the height of your machine will increase.

Not only that, but if you use it for decoys and even other things much where you'll be going in and out of it a lot make sure the opening is taller than your head. I don't know how many knobs we've gotten over the years from our decoy trailer.;:;banghead
 
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NodakBuckeye

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V front, extra lights inside and out. Non slip coating in ramp and floor, tall enough to stand in. I would add some type cabinets up front for storing extra gear, dry cloths, and such for trips and then have a place to store gear for the soft water, I mean Harley season.
 

dakotaeye29

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Go aluminum, 7 ft high maybe 8 wide if you have tracks. Wall e track and floor rings. LED lights on rear door and front v. Cabinet for extra storage. I have a steal work trailer and aluminum sled trailer the aluminum pulls so much better.
 


johnr

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As it turned out my son in laws dad was selling an enclosed trailer, and it was close to everything you guys mentioned. I picked up for a good price being it is a 2016 and barely used.
I got a 7 x 16 v nose with extra height of 89 inches. The lighting will need to be improved with some extra LED strategically placed, and maybe a cabinet placed in the v. It is plenty tall for future tracks, but will be tight if I put doors on it. My smaller sized son would have to park it then. Plenty of tie down spots for whatever we might haul.I'm now looking forward to the hard water season
 

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