New Garage Build

GSM

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I'm in the process of planning a detached garage/shop build. The building will be 30'x40' with 10' sidewalls. The shop will be mainly used for storage, work space and vehicle parking when the kids are older.

I am having the most trouble at this point on deciding if I should run the pipe for floor heat or not and putting a floor drain in.

What are some other "musts" that should be done as early on in the build as possible?
 


BrokenBackJack

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Definitely floor drain.
Floor heat is nice but expensive to put in.
Go as big as you can afford. Garage is NEVER too big.
8-10' wide and high doors.
 

Big Iron

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I had the same decision to make a few years ago. Floor drain 100% must have.

Floor heat- I figured i'd never use that structure for anything but cold storage- no go. Of course everyone's situation is different.

In hind sight- would have had a taller garage door to accommodate a camper.
 

Maddog

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One step closer to the end.
A) Go with the floor drain(s). I use mine all the time. Always do my vehicle wash/wax in there. Works great. I had them put in with MINIMAL floor slope. I know this is contrary to "good" draining. But, I hated garages with uneven floors. Mine have a very slight slope to them. Thought I could always get a squeegee if needed. Maybe I am 10 ply, but after 24 years, I still have to buy that squeege. And they drain fine for me. Spray down in the direction of the drains and there is no standing water.

B) You didn't ask electrical, but I will throw out a couple of suggestions for ya. 1) put in some overhead receptacles near the end of your garage where you think you may be working on vehicles. Then you can easily put in retractable trouble lights. 2) Make sure you have enough outlets. I wish I had put more in. Especially out by the doors. . . . 3) After building I added a motion detector for a couple of overhead flood lights. That way I have plenty of lighting coming in late at night and don't have to rely on the little bulbs on the garage door openers. The downside is after a timer times out you lose the lights -- unless you are in the area of the sensor. Plus my garage door opener lights fail quickly (vibrations?).

Good luck. It sounds like an exciting project, but I like building things. : )
 


Kentucky Windage

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Floor drains no matter what. One under each stall so water is running all across the floor to get to the center. Taller, wider garage doors. Bump out the wall another 2-3 feet next to the end stalls so you have storage AND the ability to open your vehicle door. LED lighting
 

SDMF

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Lots of outlets!! It's cheap, cheap, cheap!!!!! to put them in now vs. later. Put your outlets in BEFORE you put in any work-benches, so that if you change your mind/setup, you still have power where you want/need it. Put your outlets at least 54" high to get them above the height of plywood, OSB, Sheetrock etc. 30x40 I'd have at least 6 outlets in the ceiling with retractable extension cords, then you never have to trip over them. 2-3 "lifting rings" over each "stall" well anchored into the strong part of your truss. We've used lifting rings and "come-alongs" to lift/hang deer on gambrel's in Grandpa's shop forever. A 110V winch wouldn't be a bad idea either.

Minimum of 2 50amp 220V plugs. The materials cost less than $150 and are worth their weight in gold if you ever go to sell to a wood or metal worker or someone running a large air compressor for air tools etc. In fact, budget space and $$ for a compressor of your own. If all you ever use it for is to attach an end to blow the dust out of the corners and out the door, it's worth it IMO. Might as well put some outlets on the outside of the building too. 3 down the long sides and 1-2 on each short sides.

You will NEVER regret extra light. You will however cuss shadows. 4-6 rows 36' long should pretty much eliminate shadows. Outside I'd want 3 floods across the short sides and 4 across the long sides. At a minimum the corner lights should be motion activated.

10' sidewalls allow you the freedom to put some windows up high for natural light and some ventilation when necessary but keeps people from seeing in. 3-4 ceiling fans to keep the air moving helps keep things dry.

That should get you started anyway.
 

Rizzo

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1. Floor Drain
2. Lights, lots and lots of lights.
3. Water spigot.
 


Obi-Wan

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If in Bismarck I believe if you install a drain you will need a foundation not just a floating slab.
 

nxtgeneration

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Lots of outlets!! It's cheap, cheap, cheap!!!!! to put them in now vs. later. Put your outlets in BEFORE you put in any work-benches, so that if you change your mind/setup, you still have power where you want/need it. Put your outlets at least 54" high to get them above the height of plywood, OSB, Sheetrock etc. 30x40 I'd have at least 6 outlets in the ceiling with retractable extension cords, then you never have to trip over them. 2-3 "lifting rings" over each "stall" well anchored into the strong part of your truss. We've used lifting rings and "come-alongs" to lift/hang deer on gambrel's in Grandpa's shop forever. A 110V winch wouldn't be a bad idea either.

Minimum of 2 50amp 220V plugs. The materials cost less than $150 and are worth their weight in gold if you ever go to sell to a wood or metal worker or someone running a large air compressor for air tools etc. In fact, budget space and $$ for a compressor of your own. If all you ever use it for is to attach an end to blow the dust out of the corners and out the door, it's worth it IMO. Might as well put some outlets on the outside of the building too. 3 down the long sides and 1-2 on each short sides.

You will NEVER regret extra light. You will however cuss shadows. 4-6 rows 36' long should pretty much eliminate shadows. Outside I'd want 3 floods across the short sides and 4 across the long sides. At a minimum the corner lights should be motion activated.

10' sidewalls allow you the freedom to put some windows up high for natural light and some ventilation when necessary but keeps people from seeing in. 3-4 ceiling fans to keep the air moving helps keep things dry.

That should get you started anyway.

^^This. I build custom furniture as a side gig and the lack of power in my garage is a serious issue. We plan to move in 6-18 months so I'm always on the lookout and its honestly one of the things I look for. A detached garage with its own panel helps in adding it down the road but its still not ideal.
 

Jigaman

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floor drain
hot/cold water
ceiling fans
how ever many outlets you think you need - double it
how ever many lights you think you need - double it
wider overhead door than you think you need. Just because you can fit your boat through that narrow door just fine you will find it is a bitch to try to maneuver it into the back corner when you are limited by the narrow door. build as big as you can afford because you will be surprised how fast you will fill it up
 

Fisherman25

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If i were to build a shop tomorrow, these are my must have’s:

1. Floor drains
2. 14’ side walls minimum (I currently have 10’ and often wish I could get a camper or fish house in.
3. Lots of outlets with a few 220
4. I’d plumb airline around the whole building with 4 areas to hook a hose to.
5. Beer fridge

I’ve worked on floors with and without floor heat. It’s a nice heat but personally it’s not a big deal to me.
 

stalker

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A) Go with the floor drain(s). I use mine all the time. Always do my vehicle wash/wax in there. Works great. I had them put in with MINIMAL floor slope. I know this is contrary to "good" draining. But, I hated garages with uneven floors. Mine have a very slight slope to them. Thought I could always get a squeegee if needed. Maybe I am 10 ply, but after 24 years, I still have to buy that squeege. And they drain fine for me. Spray down in the direction of the drains and there is no standing water.

B) You didn't ask electrical, but I will throw out a couple of suggestions for ya. 1) put in some overhead receptacles near the end of your garage where you think you may be working on vehicles. Then you can easily put in retractable trouble lights. 2) Make sure you have enough outlets. I wish I had put more in. Especially out by the doors. . . . 3) After building I added a motion detector for a couple of overhead flood lights. That way I have plenty of lighting coming in late at night and don't have to rely on the little bulbs on the garage door openers. The downside is after a timer times out you lose the lights -- unless you are in the area of the sensor. Plus my garage door opener lights fail quickly (vibrations?).

Good luck. It sounds like an exciting project, but I like building things. : )




Replace bulbs with LED or Rough Service Incandescent.
 


Yoby

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I have been debating putting up a decent sized shed (40x60). How you will utilize your shop/shed will often dictate how you want to finish it. You are debating about in floor heat, one would assume you are going to insulate/finish the inside. My last place had a 30x40 with 10ft side walls. I found I had issues with the garage door height. little 40hp tractor with ROPS and I couldn't get in the garage door (7ft only). Many options above but here is my list of requirements:
1) floor drains
2) running water with a dedicated bathroom (therefore a small septic would be required)
3) a couple d rings in the floor to strap things down to (comes in handy working on things that roll or even skinning a deer)
4) coupe mounting locations in the ceiling to hang things from (deer, topper, boat, ect)
5) depending on how your electrical setup is, I am planning on having a dedicated location to place a generator in the shop. I can flip the exterior breaker and it will run juice into the house.
6) garage door high enough for a 5th wheel (16ft side walls). Don't have one, but in 5-10 yrs plan on getting one.
7) zoned heated floors. would like to have a broken up area dedicated to "tinker" work at a comfortable level and have the space dedicated to a camper just above freezing
8) plan out vermin issues. Have had mice in all 3 of the sheds I have had. Am planning on dedicating time to making it damn near impossible for those little bastards to ruin any more of my shit.
9) lights like every one has said.
 

LBrandt

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How well do you get along with your wife? Keep that in mind if you have to live out there.:;:cheers
 

Chas'n Tail

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Concerning floor heat, remember that you can always pipe it in but not hook it up right away if its the expense that's making you hesitant. If you don't have it, you can't hook it up later. I don't have floor drains in my garage because we bought it that way but would have been very nice to have. I'd recommend it.
 

Retired Educator

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Yes to everything above. Build as big as you can afford. Floor heat is nice but expensive. Propane or gas heat is also good if the furnace has fans as the moving air helps keep humidity down. One of the most efficient I have seen was a propane heater that was a floor mount with a down draft blower. Blew heat across the floor and any snow melt that occurred in the winter dried almost immediately. Used very little propane and was may less cost than floor heat would have been. Squirrel cage type fan which was also very quiet.
 

DirtyMike

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I just use huffranger’s while he’s working. It’s been years and he hasn’t noticed.
 


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