after market diesel shops??????

sweeney

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So i am looking at doing a full delete on my duramax getting rid of the EGR and DPF and getting a custom tune.....So anyone around Bismarck /Mandan do this type of stuff or sell the parts? The exhaust DPF delete looks straight forward but taking that egr off and putting a blocker plate on the LMM looks like a PITA. So any of you guys that did this or took it somewhere let me know what you had done or who did it and how you like it. thanks
 


Wild and Free

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Check with Skyler Yantzer of Mandan, he sells and deals with this stuff. Not sure if he would do the actual delete but he can get you all the parts and tuning I am sure. Baaken Auto, works out of his dads trucking shop west of Mandan on old 10 Roughrider transportation.

He has tons of adds on Bismanonline all the time too.
Skyler
701-214-0865

http://www.bismanonline.com/user_skyler?app_track=adViewOptionPage

If not Mike Adams owns Mikes custom trucks in Northwood ND does good work, have dealt with him several times.
http://www.mikescustomtrucks.com/
 

Rizzo

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I've been doing custom tuning for myself and others for 7 years now. The egr doesn't necessarily have to be blocked. It can be disabled but I have had mine open during instances when the drive pressures get high. But can be avoided for the most part by playing with the vane tables for the turbo. Do you have gauges already?
 

badland mule

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I ordered all the parts off the internet and did it myself. The tuner I bought disabled the egr. After many hours of research about the blocker plate I opted not to put it in. I did the delete about 6 months ago everything is sill running good. I only gained about 1 mpg but I stomp on it a lot more than I used to because it is more fun. It sure is nice being able to idle for extended periods of time and not worry about plugging the dpf though.
 


sweeney

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I think I am going to go with pcv reroute and a catch can, either disabling the egr or blocking it still not sure if I need to do a full block, probably add a pyrometer, and do a 4inch turbo back pipe with muffler. I don't know if I will go with efi live or just order a canned tune. There are so many companies that sell shit that I wanted to talk to an actual shop or at least people that have knowledge on the things this is my first diesel tune and it finally has no warranty so time to play, even though I'm not planning on going extreme with it.60-80 horse and 120ft lbs iis plenty of gain for me. Thanks for the leads guys.
 

badland mule

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Why do you want to do extended idle time anyhow?

melting snow off the windshield, waiting for cows to come in to feed, parking in -40 weather without access to electricity, leaving the ac on for a dog in the backseat, mostly its nice to have the option without worrying about your pickup going into limp mode for 30 miles while it burns out the soot in the dpf.
 

sweeney

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melting snow off the windshield, waiting for cows to come in to feed, parking in -40 weather without access to electricity, leaving the ac on for a dog in the backseat, mostly its nice to have the option without worrying about your pickup going into limp mode for 30 miles while it burns out the soot in the dpf.
This is what happened to me but it actually tripped the egr code and MAF sensor, I was in getting camper parts and the egr threw a code after idling for 30 minutes, they want 800 to put in a new egr valve so I figured for another grand I could tune and get rid of a bunch of the epa crap on the motor.
 

eyecatcher

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I did all this myself with the help of a few buddies and it was very easy. Egr and dpf. I got everything off of H&S. Last I heard you need to give your vin when purchasing the tuner and you can't register the vehicle after that. I'm sure there's ways around it though. This was on a 2011 cummins. Did it with 10,000 miles on the truck. Im at 90k and I haven't had any issues. Still runs like a champ.
 


sweeney

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So you give them the vin they send it in to state of nd and you can't register it?????
 

eyexer

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I'm guessing the vin is embedded in the chip before they send it. then if you sell it to somebody else it doesn't work on their truck
 

Wild and Free

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I'm guessing the vin is embedded in the chip before they send it. then if you sell it to somebody else it doesn't work on their truck

Correct, tuners are VIN locked once programmed and most companies now do this to make more money, if you sell the tuner you must shell out more cash to said company to change the vin or do a vin unlock.
Nothing to do with states or epa or gov ect. just a money making deal for the programmer /tuner companies.

I recently did full egr, dpf cat deletes on a 2014 Jetta TDI diesel, and sent the engine ecu in to get tuned for thie deletes and it too is VIN locked and only works on this vehicle so if one tried to swap ecms with same make car it will be a not start deal unless reflashed back to stock @ dealer.

- - - Updated - - -

BTW, extended idle time W/O an egr delete or block off will result in the same issues on these new engines which is carboned and plugged up intake systems unless one does some sort of engine crankcase breather mods to prevent the oil residue from entering the intake system all together.. I saw someone mention a catch can mod to address this.

Doing the deletes is rather simple and easy.......................on a Cummins anyhow:;:stirthepot, really sucked getting the old DPF out of the TDI, was a couple hour shoehorning ordeal after it was all unhooked.
 
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4Buck

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I idle my 2013 all the time in the winter and have never had a problem. I have also let it idle for long periods of time when I get to the campground to run the ac for the dog. I hope I don't start having this problem. Not sure if the LML makes any difference?
 

Wild and Free

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The one advantage some of the newer ones have if they have a factory exhaust brake is they can ramp up the engine load while idling and it automatically closes off the exhaust to increase load and heat generated to help with this issue.
Newer diesel are not meant to idle period, they warm up fairly quick and take little warm up time unlike the old school train of thought, idling absolutely kills all diesel engine not good for any of them especially in the cold. In the summer with the ac on and hot and elevated idle is a lot better than cold weather idling.
 


ndbwhunter

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I would take it Bisman Autoworx on airport road. Tyler has got some of the best diesel mechanics in town, and they do all kinds of custom work.
 

johnr

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I have let my F250 6.7ltr idle for over 4 hours in the winter.
Never had an issue, didn't know it would could be one.

I have 25,000 miles on it now, its a 2012 and runs better now than when new. Turns out I only drive it about 8,000 miles a year.:;:rockit
 

b2down

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Johnr, what type of mileage are you getting at 25,000 miles? I also have a 2012 and have 12,000 miles. I only get 10mpg pulling my 31 ft. 5th wheel. I expected a little better. Dealer said it will get better with about 15,000 miles on it. I also run a additive in each tank as suggested by dealer.
 

johnr

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I have had up to 18.8 mpg pulling nothing on the interstate 80mph, I have had 21 or so pulling nothing on the hwy's 65-70mph

I get around that 10mpg when pulling my 34ft fifth wheel, 15 or so with the boat, and 8 with both.

might be better or worse as I am just going off the computer screen, not actual pen and paper, tank to mileage results.
 


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