Bow Hunting 101 (For Beginners)

[johnr]

I haven't shot my bow for a few years now, I went out about 7 years ago and bought a dozen of those expensive carbon arrows that everyone likes to show pictures of now with the guy and an arrow splintered through their hands. I am now afraid to shoot my expensive arrows.

In all seriousness what should I purchase to replace these arrows, not looking to spend $200 on a set of arrows. My boy will be old enough in 2 years.

He loves shooting his Bear bow in the back yard, and practices several times a week, I don't, as I am freaked out with my arrows..haha

 

[DirtyMike]

I haven't shot my bow for a few years now, I went out about 7 years ago and bought a dozen of those expensive carbon arrows that everyone likes to show pictures of now with the guy and an arrow splintered through their hands. I am now afraid to shoot my expensive arrows.

In all seriousness what should I purchase to replace these arrows, not looking to spend $200 on a set of arrows. My boy will be old enough in 2 years.

He loves shooting his Bear bow in the back yard, and practices several times a week, I don't, as I am freaked out with my arrows..haha

Still have that limp-wristed manliness of an easterner. In all reality, just flex your arrows. If they feel solid, they're good to go. If you're really worried about it, easton FMJ's are a "hybrid."

 

[guywhofishes]

so if I'm using beman ICS bowhunter 500s now - what size would I use of the FMJ? is there a guide/chart somewhere?

 

[DirtyMike]

Easton's website should have one. I believe it's based on length of arrow and draw weight

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http://cdn.eastonhunting.com/uploads/download-files/2014_Bowhunting_Arrow_Selection_Chart2.pdf

 

[Petras]

IBO says for every 1 pound of draw weight you should have 6 grains of arrow weight. 60# draw= 360grains of total arrow weight. Not sure but I believe this includes the weight of the fletching, knock and tip as well.

 

[DirtyMike]

Spine and grains are different measurements.

 

[Account Deleted]

IBO is next to useless anyway. You should never be hunting with that light of arrow.

 

[guywhofishes]

Easton's website should have one. I believe it's based on length of arrow and draw weight

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http://cdn.eastonhunting.com/uploads/download-files/2014_Bowhunting_Arrow_Selection_Chart2.pdf

thanks DM

geez, kinda complicated for us tree-hugger types to follow:;:huh

I'm just looking to replicate behavior of my old arrows which I am pleased with (other than safety risk) - not build a nuclear reactor

I guess I will follow Easton's advice - "Easton recommends the use of a qualified pro shop to assist in correct arrow shaft selection."

but my experience is that it's a crap shoot finding a qualified person.

 

[DirtyMike]

How long of an arrow do you shoot and what's your draw weight?

 

[guywhofishes]

How long of an arrow do you shoot and what's your draw weight?

Just funnin ya. I am able to follow their selection guide.

My real concern is that I want to match the old arrow's performance - whether they were originally selected "by the book" or not. (Tom at Outdoorsman 5-6 yrs ago)

If I pick the correct FMJs by Easton they still might not match the old Beman's I'm using now. But I suppose they'll be so close it doesn't matter. Thumbs Up

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ba ha ha... just saw gamegetters listed in that guide.

good times with those PsOS - not

 

[H82bogey]

Why should you never use an arrow that is 360 grains? I'm curious because my arrows, maxima red( you know the ones with the commercial that has the red zone, blah blah blah), are only 8.11 grains per inch. For the length of arrow, adding in the weight of the fletching, inserts and broad/heads field points my arrows only weight 365 grains. Have shot 3 deer with 3 complete pass through. Two of them through shoulder blades.

I'm not great at writing. I'm not trying to come off as sarcastic or defensive. I just want to know if I missed something when I selected my arrows. I have only been bow hunting for now the start of my 3rd season, so would like to learn more.

 

[DirtyMike]

those bemans are pretty good too. I think the ICS' are pretty similar to an easton axis. I haven't had an issue with mine besides doing dumb shit that was my fault. speaking of, my wife tagged along to the range on sunday morning. As she's busy getting set up for her first shot, I turn around to get my stuff ready and I hear a TING. I turn around as fast as I can and she looks like the kid that just knocked the cookie jar off the fridge. Then she poses the question, "which pin is for 20 yards, the top or the bottom?" and she has this one the wall.

 

[Account Deleted]

Why should you never use an arrow that is 360 grains? I'm curious because my arrows, maxima red( you know the ones with the commercial that has the red zone, blah blah blah), are only 8.11 grains per inch. For the length of arrow, adding in the weight of the fletching, inserts and broad/heads field points my arrows only weight 365 grains. Have shot 3 deer with 3 complete pass through. Two of them through shoulder blades.

I'm not great at writing. I'm not trying to come off as sarcastic or defensive. I just want to know if I missed something when I selected my arrows. I have only been bow hunting for now the start of my 3rd season, so would like to learn more.

That is a good question and I should have explained better. With light arrows, you are giving up the more important aspect of KE. You lose downrange penetration basically. If I were to guess, your pass through shots were pretty close, right?

Most guys calculate KE right as it leaves the bow. For instance, mine is 70+ lbs with a 425 grain arrow at 283fps IMMEDIATELY AFTER THE ARROW IS LAUNCHED. Someone who is pushing say, 320fps, with a 350 grain arrow, will probably get the same calculation. The difference is, my arrow will still blow through an elk if it hits a bone at 40 yards, whereas the lighter arrow will often time stop in its' tracks.

 

[H82bogey]

That is a good question and I should have explained better. With light arrows, you are giving up the more important aspect of KE. You lose downrange penetration basically. If I were to guess, your pass through shots were pretty close, right?

Most guys calculate KE right as it leaves the bow. For instance, mine is 70+ lbs with a 425 grain arrow at 283fps IMMEDIATELY AFTER THE ARROW IS LAUNCHED. Someone who is pushing say, 320fps, with a 350 grain arrow, will probably get the same calculation. The difference is, my arrow will still blow through an elk if it hits a bone at 40 yards, whereas the lighter arrow will often time stop in its' tracks.

Makes sense. You are correct in that my shots were close. All inside 20 yards. Where I hunt the trees are so thick I can't take a shot farther than 30. But If I ever go on an elk hunt trip I am getting heavier arrows regardless.

A friend of mine added a ton of weight to his arrows this year with inserts. Not only do they fly better, but when they hit the target they make this ridiculous thud. I think they weight 560 grains. They fly slow, but man they pack a punch.

 

[DirtyMike]

ghost hit the nail on the head. I honestly have never weighed my arrows. I'm spined right and axis' carry a 9.5 gpi. I stick with 100 gr broadheads and the rest is stock.

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Yowzers, just typed in some rough guesses for my KE. 9.5 gpi x 29.5 inches (i have t rex arms) + 100 gr BH with 304 fps gives me a KE of 78.

 

[Pinecone]

wow re- read the title guys! #guyswhoknowwaytomuchaboutarrows

 

[guywhofishes]

#guywhoknowsweallhaveaddshouldknowbetterthantoexpectwecanstayontask

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also: juanr started it... as usual

 

[johnr]

Instigator, and afraid of my arrow, same reason I never carry a pencil in my front pocket, that whole stabbing of the scrotum thing..

 

[gst]

Try to practice as long of range as you can. If you can get to the point that you can make consistent groups at 60 yards you will find that suddenly the 20 and 30 yard shots will feel like chip shots.

Okay, as someone that has instructed kids entering into archery for a number of years this is NOT what you want to do as a new archer. Every miscue in form is multiplied the further away from your target you are. After you get equipment that fits you, start close 10 to 12 yards. Concentrate on FORM primarily. Get a video on beginning archery and concentrate on your FORM.

Until you are putting arrows in a 3 inch circle at 20 yards consistantly and you have gotten comfortable with correct FORM to the point it is second nature do NOT move further out.

You do not need to spend big bucks to get good equipment. After having a number of new bows that are good, I still shoot an old Mathews Switchback hunting (can't afford a newer one buying two boys bows) and a Drenalin LD for targets. Ebay is a great place to buy bows reasonable. Lots of time you can get the whole set up for half what you would pay for a bow at Scheels.

 

[Mr Nice]

Keep it simple and have fun that is the best advice I can give. Secondly go to your local archery club and visit with the members, I've shot with people from all corners of the state and there are good people all over willing to help people get started in this great sport. Just tonight I took a rookie out to sit for her first deer, we didn't see anything but she had fun.

Dont worry about having all the high tech gear. Easy for me to say that as I do but I've been doing this for a long time and put all my gear through the test in some nasty elements every year. Take your time and if bowhunting is for you, gradually you'll get better gear.