Dig your own water well?

Lycanthrope

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Looks like hard work, but might be fun to try. I called a place for a well quote and they want $60/ft for a 100ft well, with no pump. I can get equipment to do it myself for half that, and can dig as many wells as I want! Got some well reports from state water dept and in my specific area it looks like all sand and clay with a bit of gravel mixed in. Nothing too difficult...
http://www.deeprock.com/HD/frmHD77.aspx

 


eyexer

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some areas of the country they can drive a sand point fifteen feet and get nice water.
 

sierra1995

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who did you call? i did mine 3 years ago, 180' cased for $30 a foot. pump and control was extra. Reed's well service did mine.
 

Lycanthrope

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who did you call? i did mine 3 years ago, 180' cased for $30 a foot. pump and control was extra. Reed's well service did mine.

Some place out of New Salem, Earth Energy & Water Systems I think it was called. I did talk to someone that recommended I call Paul but I havent gotten around to it yet. What size well did you dig? 4" cased? Did you get your water tested? What was the flow rate?

- - - Updated - - -

I found this first hand experience, which is mildly entertaining:

I've been lurking on these forums for some time now and I thought I would contribute my experience in drilling my own well. I appreciate all the posts I have read and the time the authors have put into answering questions here. Here is where I learned about CSV which I will be using on my well!

Tales of Well Drilling...

I received the shiny new package via truck. I'm very optimistic and looking forward to digging my own well. I plan carefully and allot an entire weekend to drilling as I know it will be quite a bit of work. I inspect the package, prep the motors, assemble the rig, dig the mud pits and line everything up. Saturday morning, I'm out by 6am. The rig is ready, fuelled and connected. All I have to do is start it up and drill!. I fill the mud pit with water and begin dumping in the clay. Hmmm, first problem is that the clay doesn't like to mix to well. No problem, I grab a 5 gallon bucket fill about 1/3 with clay, then add water and mix with my power drill and homemade paint stirring tool. Fire up the mud pump, dump the clay into the water and recycle mud adding water and clay to get the consistency described in the book.
Finally the mud is ready. I fire up the drill motor, turn the mud valve to allow the mud to flow through the rig and disengage the lock. The instructions said to let the weight of the rig push the drill bit while spinning. In less than 6 seconds flat, the rig drops the entire 5 feet and stalls. I'm pretty sure that's not supposed to happen.

A call to the manufacture reveals that they don't answer the phone on Saturdays. It's only 9am and I'm stopped cold. I decide to retrieve the drill bit (2inch bit) from the hole. Disassembling the entire rig, I have to use a hi-lift jack to crank the 5 feet out of the ground. It takes nearly 2 hours to accomplish this as the bit acts like an anchor in the sand. By the end of the day, I'm frustrated. I have assembled, disassembled and reassembled the entire rig, created 60 galons of mud, smashed my fingers three times, and am so dirty, the wife won't let me in the house without stripping outside and don't even have a starting hole to show for it. But I'm not discouraged, I learning lots and I LOVE to learn!

On Monday, a Call to the manufacture reveals that when drilling in sand, you have to hold back the rig to allow the mud time to line the walls to create the hole. The instructions say to drill the entire well with the 2” bit, then the 4” bit then again with the 6” bit to create a cased 4” well. The manufacturer informs me that if I'm drilling through soft material like this, I can just weld the 2” bit on to the end of the 6” bit and drill it once. It will just drill much slower. I decide I like that idea and spend the rest of the week building the drill bit and preparing for another go at it.

Saturday morning, 6am. I'm firing up the rig and pump. I had to hand dig about 2 feet to fit the new bit on the system. Amazingly, the mud is mostly still there. Within 30 minutes, I'm drilling again. The new bit works like magic! Slow drilling though. About 10ft/hr including adding pipe in 5' sections. 10', 15', 20'. At 20' I shut down the mud pump, stop the drill, disconnect the drill pipe, raise the drill to add the next 5' section, fire up the mud pump, start the drill and it stalls. Nothing budges it; it's locked up. Shutting down the system, I spend the rest of the day trying to figure out what happened. Apparently, enough particles were suspended in the mud that when I stopped it, they settled to the bottom and seized the bit. Disassembling the rig takes another hour. Then the usual ritual to strip and hose off before entry is allowed in the house. Hey, I have a hole in the ground and I LIKE to learn!.

A call to the manufacturer confirms my fears, I need to let the mud pump run for a while when I reach the end of the drill stem to let it float the particles out before stopping the mud pump. Apparently, I should let the drill run too during this time just in case. THAT would have been useful information to have before starting! Unfortunately, I have 20' of drill stem along with my custom bit stuck in the ground and the hi-lift won't budge it. I destroy the hi-lift in my attempts to retrieve it. Digging it out is out of the question. I may have to order new parts. One last attempt though. I need to move some dirt around the house and I figure that a front-end loader could pull it out. Now is as good a time as any to move the dirt. Rather than drill, I spend the next weekend with a rented loader moving dirt. When chained up to the drill stem, I end up breaking my chain. Wow! That is really stuck. Another trip to the orange box for some heavy duty chain and the drill stem breaks free! But just barely. I am right at the limit of the machine. Another 10 feet and I won't be able to retrieve it again. I consider myself lucky. I only destroy the top 5' of drill stem while pulling it out. Not a problem though. Remember, I like to learn.

It's another month before I can dedicate the time to drill again. This drilling is harder than it looks! 6am, Saturday morning, 1 month later. I'm ready to go! I have to remake all of the mud, but it doesn't take as long this time. I'm drilling my 7am. The hole starts at 10', but I'm in a groove now. 15', 20', 25', 30', 35'! but then, as if on queue, DISASTER! At 40', the rig starts jumping around almost uncontrollably. Pitching, rolling, airborne! Holy smokes, what's going on!?! I'm hanging on for dear life, afraid to shut it down, knowing that if I do, I lose 40' of drill stem and my drill bits! Backing off a foot, stops the wild gyrations. But I have no mud flow. Looking at my mud pits reveals that I have no mud! I KNOW it was full just a few seconds ago! This definitely needs a call to the manufacturer! Very carefully, I shut the system down, removing the entire drill stem and bit.

Monday morning, the manufacturer reveals that I have hit gravel. Wow, I had no idea gravel could do that. The call reveals that I need to thicken my mud, slow the drill down and increase the flow of mud. He assures me that this is good, because it means that I am close to water. Of course, his view of water and mine are different. I know I can't use that top water as 300 years of irrigation have made sure it is high in all of the things you don't want in good drinking water. I have tested and used shallow well water in this valley before. We argue for a few minutes and then he gives up stating that it's my well and I can drill as deep as I want too. He was just trying to save me some money. I'm looking at my pile of 250' of drill stem, thinking the time to save me money was when I purchased that stuff. Now it's just my time that is involved. Oh well, I'm learning lots and I'm pretty sure I like to learn.

Another month goes by before I can restart the rig. Another trip to a local drill supply for more bagged clay and an expensive bottle of some super duper polymer liquid that will thicken the mud. I've rebuilt the rig now. Instead of just having it staked in the ground, I have arranged railroad ties and have bolted the entire thing down with lag bolts. It may still move around, but it won't get airborne with this setup! Man this gravel is tough stuff with this little rig. Down 1 foot, then it collapses. I have to raise it back up over and over. I'm beginning to think that I've spent this money and time learning how to stir gravel at the bottom of a hole. Two days, and I've gone through 10 feet of gravel! I think I'm getting discouraged at this point. I keep telling myself through gritted teeth. I like to learn. I like saving money. I like doing things myself. Maybe if I repeat it enough, I will start to believe it again.

Winter is here and I don't feel like suffering as well as freezing, so I just put the whole shebang in storage. Maybe something will come to me while I stare at that hole in the ground. Seems like nearly everyday, I walk out to the hole, stare down as far as I can see. Sometimes I bring a flashlight with me and check to see if there is water in there. It becomes a ritual that I perform nearly every night during the winter. I'm not sure what I was thinking. I know that staring at the hole won't change things, but I'm hoping for some sort of inspiration. Of course, if you've read through this far, you KNOW that disaster will strike! Just like every other aspect of this tale, this hole in the ground is a nightmare. The dog has been barking like crazy every night for a week. Cats, other dogs, people walking by... It's becoming annoying. Then one night, I walk out the back door to tell the dog to quiet down. There is the putrid smell of a skunk in the air tonight. Surely not! It can't be!, but it is. I return to the hole with a flashlight and see the plywood board covering it moved slightly to the side and a pair of green glowing eyes staring up at me! Of all the stupid...!!!! AAHHH!!!

I spend the next four hours attempting to get the critter out of the hole gagging and gasping the whole time. Ropes, pipes, nets, hooks.. I tried it all. Finally, I resign myself to the death of the skunk. I will return in the morning with a pistol, put the skunk out of it's misery, hook it and pull it out and then fill the hole. The next morning I return to the hole, prepared to carry out the grim deed. However, there is no skunk! The wily little critter crawled out of that 40' deep 6” hole all by itself! I contemplate if this whole ordeal was worth it as I shovel that precious hole full of dirt.
It was a full year and a half before I was willing to start the process again. I moved the hole to a better location on the property and began the whole process over again. This time, I followed the little tidbits of information I had gleaned along the way. I took a full week off of work and drilled the hole nearly nonstop. It took me four days with only 16 hours where the drill wasn't tuning. I think the only thing that could have made this hole more difficult than the 250 feet of sand and gravel I drilled through would have been hitting bedrock somewhere in there. In the end, I have a 250' 4†cased well that produces in excess of 60 gpm with the static water level at 45'. My son and I tested the well output by bailing water and we couldn't budge the static level even though we were bailing over 60gpm!

Was it worth it? If your time isn't worth much, sure. If you're trying to save cash, you betcha! But would I do it again? I'm not sure. I might wait until my sons are a bit older so they could participate. You know, the slave labor thing. In the end, I'm glad I did it. I learned an enormous amount and I have a new found respect for those that do this for a living. I think it was worth it, but it sure isn't for everybody. I think I have recovered enough to say that I LOVE learning again.

By the way, if you are interested in a small drilling rig capable of drilling a 250' 4†cased well, let me know. I know where you can pick one up used for a good price!
 


JayKay

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That's awesome. My kinda story. I'm the guy who replaces the bearings in his camper hubs, and ends up re-roofing the garage.
 

sierra1995

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Some place out of New Salem, Earth Energy & Water Systems I think it was called. I did talk to someone that recommended I call Paul but I havent gotten around to it yet. What size well did you dig? 4" cased? Did you get your water tested? What was the flow rate?


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yea 4" cased. i only use the water for irrigating the lawn, so i didn't bother testing it. I am in the Soo Aquifer, and there are irrigation pivots watering quarter sections north and south of me so i didn't see a need to test. I have a 2-1/4 HP pump, capable of about 200 feet of head. I didn't do a pressure tank or anything like that, just have a manifold off the top of the casing to hook garden hoses up to, and a simple on-off switch by the well. I can run 3 rain train sprinklers with excellent pressure. the original flow test Paul did only says 6 gallons per minute, but like i said i can run 3 rain trains, couple probably run 4 without seeing a drop in pressure or flow. i had Paul install a drain back valve 8' below the surface so i don't ever have to do any winterizing, and also a small pressure relief valve on the manifold that i have set at 75 PSI, so in case a hose gets kinked or something like that, i won't cause too much back pressure on the pump.
 

Glass

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You can check near by well depths and flow rates here http://mapservice.swc.nd.gov/index.phtml?active=Drillers

One word of caution with wells in the area you are.......the water is very hard and salty. We have one right around Menoken and had to stop watering gardens and tress because of those factors. I would maybe look at the drill log, find a well close to you and see if the owner has had it tested or see if they will let you test the water.

You can also look into applying for EQIP through the NRCS, beginning farmers get 90% cost share if approved and wells, trees, drip irrigation etc is/can be included in all this. Makes for a dam good deal on land development!
 


SDMF

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I put that in the same category as roofing and concrete work. Yes I can, no I won't.
 

sierra1995

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to sierra... i would get a pressure tank and a pressure switch. they are inexpensive and serve a purpose.

Was thinking about it when we first installed the well,but opted not to because we are always watering with at least 2 sprinklers. If i had an underground sprinkler system i would have pressure tank and switch, but since i only have regular sprinklers and no actual plumbing connected to the well (like a house for example), a pressure tank wouldn't serve me any purpose other than if a hose gets kinked or something like that, then would shut the pump off.
 

2400

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I can get equipment to do it myself for half that, and can dig as many wells as I want!

Come on over and practice at my place, I'll fire up the grill and get the steaks ready. ;)

One of my neighbors was going to drill a well as he was tired of hauling water. Once he found out the water table was at 4200' he decided he liked hauling water.
 


Allen

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First and foremost, that hole drilling story is not only funny, but it's incomplete as all hell. There's a lot more to getting a successful water well than just digging a hole in the ground. Things like screen size and depth selection, installing a packer, and grouting (or using bentonite) to seal the well. If you put in a well with a bad design you can seriously screw up your water quality, have repetitive pump issues, and encourage bacterial growth in your well which makes you lose production as it plugs the screen and sand/gravel used as a packer.

There are pitfalls not mentioned in that wonderfully detailed account of a first time driller. I'd be pretty curious as to what rig he was using as it sounds awfully small. Probably something akin to the smaller rigs I've been around.

While I haven't checked on pricing around here, that $60 a cased foot sounds really, REALLY high. It's about double what I was seeing 10 years ago in SD for the drilling of 8 inch wells as we targeted 250-500 gpm production.

Perhaps that is because a lot of drillers "guarantee" a successful well, even if they have to drill it 3-4 times. Where you are going, this should be a one and done deal on the hole in the ground. The water is there, the quality could be crap, I know it is at my place in my two wells, but there is definitely enough sand and gravel to where you should be able to get a well.

The problem with this area is that geologically, it's just too young. The salts that were/are trapped in the shale particles of sand are still dissolving. So the longer the water is in and moves through the ground, the saltier it gets. Young water is not a great idea either though, it has a greater potential for being above recommended limits for nitrate, arsenic, and other not so good things even though it's a better water source for trees.

P.S. Just because water tastes good, or makes better coffee, doesn't mean you want to drink it. Years ago I ran across a fella who hated the NDDH because they told him he had contaminated water. His well was in his basement and was only about 15 ft deep. It had no sealing or anything on it to prevent the septic tank that was 20 feet away from his basement from entering his capture zone. I spent a good deal of time talking to him about "recycling". Yuck!

Then there was a gravel and concrete operation over in Minnetucky that hired me one time to help figure out why their concrete needed so much air entrainment chemicals in the morning from water they pumped into a tank overnight, but by afternoon when they were using water straight out of the well for the concrete they had to cut back on air entrainment chems. As a side note, the guy said..."oh yeah, and between the two wells...this one is preferred for making coffee". Yep, another example of recycling water from the local outhouses.

Bottom line, it is so, sooo easy to screw up a well that I would (even for me) hire a pro. I'd just be there every single minute overseeing the work and design.
 
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Lycanthrope

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First and foremost, that hole drilling story is not only funny, but it's incomplete as all hell. There's a lot more to getting a successful water well than just digging a hole in the ground. Things like screen size and depth selection, installing a packer, and grouting (or using bentonite) to seal the well. If you put in a well with a bad design you can seriously screw up your water quality, have repetitive pump issues, and encourage bacterial growth in your well which makes you lose production as it plugs the screen and sand/gravel used as a packer.

There are pitfalls not mentioned in that wonderfully detailed account of a first time driller. I'd be pretty curious as to what rig he was using as it sounds awfully small. Probably something akin to the smaller rigs I've been around.

While I haven't checked on pricing around here, that $60 a cased foot sounds really, REALLY high. It's about double what I was seeing 10 years ago in SD for the drilling of 8 inch wells as we targeted 250-500 gpm production.

Perhaps that is because a lot of drillers "guarantee" a successful well, even if they have to drill it 3-4 times. Where you are going, this should be a one and done deal on the hole in the ground. The water is there, the quality could be crap, I know it is at my place in my two wells, but there is definitely enough sand and gravel to where you should be able to get a well.

The problem with this area is that geologically, it's just too young. The salts that were/are trapped in the shale particles of sand are still dissolving. So the longer the water is in and moves through the ground, the saltier it gets. Young water is not a great idea either though, it has a greater potential for being above recommended limits for nitrate, arsenic, and other not so good things even though it's a better water source for trees.

P.S. Just because water tastes good, or makes better coffee, doesn't mean you want to drink it. Years ago I ran across a fella who hated the NDDH because they told him he had contaminated water. His well was in his basement and was only about 15 ft deep. It had no sealing or anything on it to prevent the septic tank that was 20 feet away from his basement from entering his capture zone. I spent a good deal of time talking to him about "recycling". Yuck!

Then there was a gravel and concrete operation over in Minnetucky that hired me one time to help figure out why their concrete needed so much air entrainment chemicals in the morning from water they pumped into a tank overnight, but by afternoon when they were using water straight out of the well for the concrete they had to cut back on air entrainment chems. As a side note, the guy said..."oh yeah, and between the two wells...this one is preferred for making coffee". Yep, another example of recycling water from the local outhouses.

Bottom line, it is so, sooo easy to screw up a well that I would (even for me) hire a pro. I'd just be there every single minute overseeing the work and design.

Is there a place that sells well supplies here in Bismarck, clay, packing/gravel, screens, pumps, etc? Or is it all ordered online typically?
 

LBrandt

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Our well out by the barn had feedlot on 3 sides and was a sandpoint at 21 ft. Had to be pulled every three years, and a new sandpoint put down. Job and a half. The old pumpjack had a tin cup tied on with a piece of wire for getting a cool drink when you needed one. Best tasting water I ever drank. Iron content was close to a 58 Edsel so you didnt need to take supplements. Both Mom and Dad lived to 90 and it wasnt bad water they died from. House water was drawed from same deepth just not so close to the cow yard. Now we have rural water full of chemicals to "make it heathy to drink and it taste like shit". Take all the iron and arsnic out and it looses its taste and quality for life.
 

Allen

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I imagine someone in Bismarck carries a limited supply of stuff, but I don't know who that would be offhand. I haven't had to look for it since I've lived here. Things like screens are really expensive and there isn't a one-size fits all screen, they should be selected with great care, you can/will get cavitation and wreck them or you will have a well that produces sand. Nobody likes sand in their water lines.
 

Obi-Wan

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yea 4" cased. i only use the water for irrigating the lawn, so i didn't bother testing it. I am in the Soo Aquifer, and there are irrigation pivots watering quarter sections north and south of me so i didn't see a need to test. I have a 2-1/4 HP pump, capable of about 200 feet of head. I didn't do a pressure tank or anything like that, just have a manifold off the top of the casing to hook garden hoses up to, and a simple on-off switch by the well. I can run 3 rain train sprinklers with excellent pressure. the original flow test Paul did only says 6 gallons per minute, but like i said i can run 3 rain trains, couple probably run 4 without seeing a drop in pressure or flow. i had Paul install a drain back valve 8' below the surface so i don't ever have to do any winterizing, and also a small pressure relief valve on the manifold that i have set at 75 PSI, so in case a hose gets kinked or something like that, i won't cause too much back pressure on the pump.

The place I bought has 2 wells and the older well was hooked up very similar and I have not had any problems with it the 10 years I have owned the place.
 


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