OK boomer.But yet this thread feels like it is 10 years old when I see all of the live units on the ice these days. What the heck is a flasher anyways?
When my Ice 55 went down I didn't exactly have $3,000+ to drop on a new setup, still can't quite justify it. $500 or so on sale FL30 was a little easier to swallow, then on my way home blew a tire on my truck so that was $1,000-1,500 to replace all of them, they were due but was hoping to limp them a little longer
Not being sarcastic because I am prone to screw ups but pray tell how you managed to do that. I want to know so that I can hopefully avoid the same issue. Thanks in advance.I dropped my fifth wheel unto my own pickup, talk about a double nut kick. 2 deductibles, 2 items needing to go to the shop, and one happy wife...
Agreed,spent hours/years staring at my fl8 when it first came out better than watching a bobber for hours wondering if there is fish down there.then fl18 with zoom and low power for shallow water and to filter out zoo plankton in fertile lakes,game changer.must be close to 20 years on the FL18. Hoping to get that much more out of her.
I slay the eyes with my old tech, and cheap lures.
So how was the insurance company to deal with? You happen to have any inside info or know the adjuster?I dropped my fifth wheel unto my own pickup, talk about a double nut kick. 2 deductibles, 2 items needing to go to the shop, and one happy wife...
That's what I have been wondering but I don't know squat about them but I have an old 688 DI with a flasher that seems to work just fine for ice fishing. One guy who is high tech with fishing stuff stopped by and even complimented about how well it was working.IDK why anyone would waste money on any of these flashers if they have any type of modern graph. Go buy the ice ducer, a lithium battery, and a Genz box or build your own box. It'll work just as well and will be cheaper.