WTF is up with my maple trees?

[SupressYourself]

Now that we've figured out the basswood / beetle problem, can anyone help diagnose my maple issue?
I have 3 maples in my yard. 2 are Sierra Glen and 1 is the standard sugar maple variety.
All three of them have turned yellow this year. They started out green, and turned yellow, and are even curling up at the tips. They've been planted for 3-4 years, and I only reacall some of this toward the end of last summer.
I'm in the alkaline clay bullshit they call the red river valley.
Considering all the rain and (relatively) cool weather we've had, I don't believe they're dry.
I have one River Birch that is yellowing a bit too. All other trees (spruce, cottonwood, elm, oak, aspen, willow) look great.
These pics were taken about a week ago.

Sugar Maple:



Sienna Glen:


Leaves:




With an elm leaf for color comparison (the elm is only a few yards away and looks great)

 

[martinslanding]

iron chlorosis is a yellowing of plant leaves caused by iron deficiency, it can eventually kill them

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I talked to a local nursery and I am going to try some additives to the soil, mine is about twice the size of yours , I'd hate to lose it...the guy said it should be back to normal next year if I can get two treatments in this year yet

 

[SupressYourself]

In my research, I came across that. Sounds like it can be common is alcaline soil - which I certainly have.
Can you share some details about the treatments are are looking at?

 

[BrokenBackJack]

Was told many many years ago when planting trees in the yard always throw in the hole before putting the tree in a plow share or 1-2 cultivator shovels. Always have don't know if it helped or not but it sure never hurt anything.

 

[guywhofishes]

I've seen a lot of maples looking like that.

What's odd is I see the city planted them in a boulevard... maybe 8 or 9 maple trees along the street and all nice dark green and one or two (not in a row) are bright yellow. Seems goofy that chlorosis would hit so randomly.

 

[Auggie]

Iron chlorosis is caused by excess limestone. The limestone oxidizes the form of iron from ferrous (black/Fe2) to ferric (rust/Fe+3). The iron is there, but ferrous iron is a trillion times more soluble than ferric iron. Nutrients need to be soluble so a plant sucks them up as they suck up water.
Iron chlorosis is a huge issue for soybeans in certain areas of North Dakota. This can be alleviated using an ortho-ortho EDDHAiron fertilizer. A common product is soygreen. There are many iron fertilizers out there, but the ortho-ortho EDDHA has proven to be effective. Whereas, other fertilizers are more likely to oxidize and be insoluble shortly after application.
Keep in mind, over watering will solubilze carbonates and will oxidize the iron.

 

[AR-15]

Try some Geritol

 

[Kentucky Windage]

Iron chlorosis is caused by excess limestone. The limestone oxidizes the form of iron from ferrous (black/Fe2) to ferric (rust/Fe+3). The iron is there, but ferrous iron is a trillion times more soluble than ferric iron. Nutrients need to be soluble so a plant sucks them up as they suck up water.
Iron chlorosis is a huge issue for soybeans in certain areas of North Dakota. This can be alleviated using an ortho-ortho EDDHAiron fertilizer. A common product is soygreen. There are many iron fertilizers out there, but the ortho-ortho EDDHA has proven to be effective. Whereas, other fertilizers are more likely to oxidize and be insoluble shortly after application.
Keep in mind, over watering will solubilze carbonates and will oxidize the iron.

This guy straight up knows his stuff.

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Auggie, will you comment on application and timing.

 

[dean nelson]

It's certainly not alone!

 

[Riggen&Jiggen]

I just noticed maples like this tonight in Burlington. I have never seen them like that before. Why would this be an issue this year and not in others? Seems strange to me.

 

[Auggie]

Here is a publication on IDC (Iron Deficient Chlorosis) from Utah State. I'd take a soil test so you know your pH, but also test the Calcium Carbonate Equivalent (CCE). That tells the whole story. You'll likely see IDC more prevalent in side slopes as rain doesn't infiltrate as much and leach limestone down or in low areas. High water tables can move limestone upwards. Web Soil Survey is also a great tool for planning these things out, but ground truthing through soil testing is still recommended. Soil maps are good, but aren't always right.
Riggen, weather from year to year can weigh heavily on this. When it's dry, it's less prevalent. Also salt can stress a plant making IDC more apparent.

 

[SlamminSalmon]

I lost one maple already and now the other is doing the same thing. Been trying to figure it out now I know! Thanks!

 

[Auggie]

Forgot that NDSU Extension just released a pub in tree IDC this spring. Here's the link: https://www.ag.ndsu.edu/publications/lawns-gardens-trees/iron-chlorosis-in-trees

 

[Brian Renville]

Planted one maple last year and it started turning about this time of year. Thought for sure I’d lose it over the winter but it came right back. Lost a few branches but it’s definitely getting thicker. Some of the edges of the leaves have started to turn again but I’m glad I read this. Put a couple fertilizer sticks in the ground again and will go look for an iron fertilizer tomorrow. Thanks fellas!

 

[guywhofishes]

I have a maple in my yard that’s been yellowing the last couple years.

After reading NDSU’s article on treatment (PITA if you ask me), it sounds like that one’s not gonna make it. Ha ha.

 

[Big Iron]

Ripped out 5 Autumn Blaze maples last year. I have to say generally Maples and Clay don't mix well.

 

[Glass]

I'm going to state an unpopular opinion. The problem with your maples is they are maples. We have 1 maples that does good here (amur), 1 maple that does ok here (silver), the rest will live for a while (4-8 years) and then likely will die out. I know there are exceptions to this but not much. We simply have to high of PH for them survive over long haul. They are cheap, fast growing, and beautiful but not replanting every few years. Do yourself a favor and drive around your town and try to find a mature autumn blaze, Debra, or fire wing, I have yet to see one when I have been looking for them. My thoughts, as well as the ND forest service service tree guy.

 

[guywhofishes]

For those considering amur:

https://www.dnr.state.mn.us/invasives/terrestrialplants/woody/amurmaple.html

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The silvers do very well in FM area in my opinion. Giant specimens all over town.

The two in my yard pumped out 2 gallons of syrup this spring. I suspect that will be the best year ever for sap though - the seeding this spring was bizarre - the trees looked like they had brown leaves due to the seed density. And when the seeds dropped the trees were bare for another month, then filled in with leaves in late June.

 

[martinslanding]

In my research, I came across that. Sounds like it can be common is alcaline soil - which I certainly have.
Can you share some details about the treatments are are looking at?

I just had the guy stop out last week, I have not had the application done yet, so I am not sure what they are going to use or how, I know sometimes they drill down and add "spikes" of chemical to the soil, we have a birch turning yellow too going to hit them both we are adding a tree to our yard so we need to stop by the nursery and pick one out...I will find out more then

 

[PrairieGhost]

Auggie would acidifying the soil get the same results. I see Miracle Grow always pushes Muriatic acid, but Muriatic is simply a 14th century term for hydrochloric if I am not mistaken. I had a problem with pines and spruce and treated them with hydrochloric acid. Normally pines sort of site for four or five years then take off. The reason is it takes pine needles dropping for four or five years to acidify the soil. Just curious what your thoughts are on an alternative cheap fix.

You do have to be more careful with acid. Also buy a cheap all plastic sprayer as it will eat the brass fitting and destroy your good sprayer in one day.