suppressor help



ktm450

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In all of this discussion i forgot to ask. Direct thread or CB mount? whats everyone preference?

I like the idea of direct thread- only have to have to pay to have the barrel threads cut and buy a thread protector for when the suppressor isnt on the gun and done.

CB- needs the cb muzzle break on all of the guns in order to use the suppressor, the cb muzzle break isnt all that pretty looking by itself. lol

The guys at tag said they sell more CB's then direct thread. I did end up purchasing the cb as thats all they had but if i wanted direct thread they would send it off for $25 and have them change it to direct thread.
 

SupressYourself

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All of mine are direct thread. I have too many rifles and too many cans to be trying to mix and match muzzle brakes. Keep in mind that most quick detach / muzzle brake systems are proprietary, and only work with cans from the same manufacturer.
 

sweeney

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I have CB because pre suppressor most of my guns had brakes on them, and i had got used to shooting with them. IMO most of the cb brakes alone aren't the greatest compared to high end ones, but definitely do reduce recoil felt. But at 125$ per brake it does start to get a little ridiculous, if you stayed with one company only and they offered every can you wanted in that configuration it might be all right. If your not going to shoot suppressed all the time they are a good option if you normally shoot brakes, otherwise they are just an added expense. I could have bought another suppressor with the number of brakes I own at 125$ apiece. Not to mention all of the old brakes i had to take off to put the proprietary brakes on.
 

ktm450

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All of mine are direct thread. I have too many rifles and too many cans to be trying to mix and match muzzle brakes. Keep in mind that most quick detach / muzzle brake systems are proprietary, and only work with cans from the same manufacturer.
That makes sense. each CB break is like $100 also which is another thing i wasnt sure i wanted to do. Have u had any issues with suppressor backing off because of direct thread? They made it sound like that could be a problem and thats why they would do the cb vs direct thread.

I have CB because pre suppressor most of my guns had brakes on them, and i had got used to shooting with them. IMO most of the cb brakes alone aren't the greatest compared to high end ones, but definitely do reduce recoil felt. But at 125$ per brake it does start to get a little ridiculous, if you stayed with one company only and they offered every can you wanted in that configuration it might be all right. If your not going to shoot suppressed all the time they are a good option if you normally shoot brakes, otherwise they are just an added expense. I could have bought another suppressor with the number of brakes I own at 125$ apiece. Not to mention all of the old brakes i had to take off to put the proprietary brakes on.

None of my guns have threads or brakes on them. I think you guys just talked me into paying the $25 and having it direct thread swapped over.



I did end up choosing the the Ultra 7 Gen 2 and the Q- el camino rimfire cans. Now the long wait begins and getting barrels threaded.
 


SupressYourself

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Have u had any issues with suppressor backing off because of direct thread? They made it sound like that could be a problem and thats why they would do the cb vs direct thread.

Never. Just put them on tight, like 'hold the gun between your legs and wrench it with both hands' kind of tight. After you've shot a bit maybe check again (when it's cooled enough), but I've never had one come loose.
I also use a sharpie to put a tiny witness mark on both the can and barrel to make sure I apply roughly the same amount of torque each time, as that can affect POI.

Another tip: No matter who does your threading, or if you do direct thread vs quick detach, make sure your bore is aligned with the bore of the can before ever shooting through it. Usually you can just eyeball it, but you can also use some kind of alignment rod. A baffle strike will ruin your day.
 

sweeney

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Never. Just put them on tight, like 'hold the gun between your legs and wrench it with both hands' kind of tight. After you've shot a bit maybe check again (when it's cooled enough), but I've never had one come loose.
I also use a sharpie to put a tiny witness mark on both the can and barrel to make sure I apply roughly the same amount of torque each time, as that can affect POI.

Another tip: No matter who does your threading, or if you do direct thread vs quick detach, make sure your bore is aligned with the bore of the can before ever shooting through it. Usually you can just eyeball it, but you can also use some kind of alignment rod. A baffle strike will ruin your day.
have you had a baffle strike?
 

Tikka280ai

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Never. Just put them on tight, like 'hold the gun between your legs and wrench it with both hands' kind of tight. After you've shot a bit maybe check again (when it's cooled enough), but I've never had one come loose.
I also use a sharpie to put a tiny witness mark on both the can and barrel to make sure I apply roughly the same amount of torque each time, as that can affect POI.

Another tip: No matter who does your threading, or if you do direct thread vs quick detach, make sure your bore is aligned with the bore of the can before ever shooting through it. Usually you can just eyeball it, but you can also use some kind of alignment rod. A baffle strike will ruin your day.
I came across a video on YouTube of a guy ordering tool steel rods to use as alignment rods. I ended up ordering 4 of them for half the price of one alignment rod from any of the supressor companies. I ordered rods for .22 6.5mm 7mm and .308. I'll add a pic of the invoice for specifics if anyone else is wanting to order then
 

Tikka280ai

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I came across a video on YouTube of a guy ordering tool steel rods to use as alignment rods. I ended up ordering 4 of them for half the price of one alignment rod from any of the supressor companies. I ordered rods for .22 6.5mm 7mm and .308. I'll add a pic of the invoice for specifics if anyone else is wanting to order then
Screenshot_20221207_134242.jpg
 

ktm450

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Never. Just put them on tight, like 'hold the gun between your legs and wrench it with both hands' kind of tight. After you've shot a bit maybe check again (when it's cooled enough), but I've never had one come loose.
I also use a sharpie to put a tiny witness mark on both the can and barrel to make sure I apply roughly the same amount of torque each time, as that can affect POI.

Another tip: No matter who does your threading, or if you do direct thread vs quick detach, make sure your bore is aligned with the bore of the can before ever shooting through it. Usually you can just eyeball it, but you can also use some kind of alignment rod. A baffle strike will ruin your day.
thanks for the info.

i dont for see the suppressor coming off the main gun very often. would it be wise to use a little blue locktite or would that not be a good idea? i will for sure do the little marker mark- just like i did on the muzzleloader to make sure i was getting the bullet all the way into the gun. I will order a rod also
 


Tymurrey

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I have one direct thread and 2 cb mount center fire cans. The direct thread one would come loose occasionally when shooting prairie dogs or other large volume shooting. You just need to make sure to check it every now and again. Also the thunderbeast direct thread cans are just a cb mount loctited essentially in the can I believe. Also if you go thunderbeast watch for the blemished cb mounts. Then they are like $60 a piece.
 

SupressYourself

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...would it be wise to use a little blue locktite or would that not be a good idea?
I mean, you can... but most cans don't have wrench flats on them, so you might need a strap wrench or something to get it off.
If anything, mine usually tighten up as I shoot them. Sometimes I have to use a jar opener grippy-thing and go full he-man to get them off.
 

Tikka280ai

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So my can finally showed up after sitting in Fargo for 5 days due to the storm. A question for all you guys that have them.

Do I need to keep a copy of my tax stamp with me when I have the can on a rifle in the field or vechile with me?
 

Tymurrey

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I keep a copy of my stamp paperwork and trust on my phone and also in my email so I can easily access it if I need to. I used to keep a paper copy with me all the time but not anymore. I still keep plenty of paper copies on hand but I’ve never been asked to see one.
 


Tikka280ai

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I keep a copy of my stamp paperwork and trust on my phone and also in my email so I can easily access it if I need to. I used to keep a paper copy with me all the time but not anymore. I still keep plenty of paper copies on hand but I’ve never been asked to see one.
Perfect. I archived an email of everything so I'll just keep that on hand at all times.
If any problem come up I'll cite the 2nd amendment
 

ktm450

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update: picked up my 2 suppressors last night. 8 months and 3 days to the date of order for the confirmation email and 1 week later getting the call to pick them up.

now to get the guns back together and sighted in for deer season ...rockon...
 

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Be sure to record POI/dope changes between suppressed and unsuppressed per rifle.

It will save you time if you want to swap between the two.

I didn't do this right off and even though it may seem like a simple thing to do, you'd be surprised how many guys don't do it. Or just fail to think about it.
 

ktm450

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Be sure to record POI/dope changes between suppressed and unsuppressed per rifle.

It will save you time if you want to swap between the two.

I didn't do this right off and even though it may seem like a simple thing to do, you'd be surprised how many guys don't do it. Or just fail to think about it.
thanks for the heads up! i wouldnt have thought of that. i will be starting from scratch with the deer rifle as its getting new optics as well :D
 


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