Have you received yours and if so when ?its all about money, my purchase in November butvthey did not send in the paperwotk to atfbuntil January, more selling than service!
Have you received yours and if so when ?its all about money, my purchase in November butvthey did not send in the paperwotk to atfbuntil January, more selling than service!
That makes sense. each CB break is like $100 also which is another thing i wasnt sure i wanted to do. Have u had any issues with suppressor backing off because of direct thread? They made it sound like that could be a problem and thats why they would do the cb vs direct thread.All of mine are direct thread. I have too many rifles and too many cans to be trying to mix and match muzzle brakes. Keep in mind that most quick detach / muzzle brake systems are proprietary, and only work with cans from the same manufacturer.
I have CB because pre suppressor most of my guns had brakes on them, and i had got used to shooting with them. IMO most of the cb brakes alone aren't the greatest compared to high end ones, but definitely do reduce recoil felt. But at 125$ per brake it does start to get a little ridiculous, if you stayed with one company only and they offered every can you wanted in that configuration it might be all right. If your not going to shoot suppressed all the time they are a good option if you normally shoot brakes, otherwise they are just an added expense. I could have bought another suppressor with the number of brakes I own at 125$ apiece. Not to mention all of the old brakes i had to take off to put the proprietary brakes on.
Have u had any issues with suppressor backing off because of direct thread? They made it sound like that could be a problem and thats why they would do the cb vs direct thread.
have you had a baffle strike?Never. Just put them on tight, like 'hold the gun between your legs and wrench it with both hands' kind of tight. After you've shot a bit maybe check again (when it's cooled enough), but I've never had one come loose.
I also use a sharpie to put a tiny witness mark on both the can and barrel to make sure I apply roughly the same amount of torque each time, as that can affect POI.
Another tip: No matter who does your threading, or if you do direct thread vs quick detach, make sure your bore is aligned with the bore of the can before ever shooting through it. Usually you can just eyeball it, but you can also use some kind of alignment rod. A baffle strike will ruin your day.
I came across a video on YouTube of a guy ordering tool steel rods to use as alignment rods. I ended up ordering 4 of them for half the price of one alignment rod from any of the supressor companies. I ordered rods for .22 6.5mm 7mm and .308. I'll add a pic of the invoice for specifics if anyone else is wanting to order thenNever. Just put them on tight, like 'hold the gun between your legs and wrench it with both hands' kind of tight. After you've shot a bit maybe check again (when it's cooled enough), but I've never had one come loose.
I also use a sharpie to put a tiny witness mark on both the can and barrel to make sure I apply roughly the same amount of torque each time, as that can affect POI.
Another tip: No matter who does your threading, or if you do direct thread vs quick detach, make sure your bore is aligned with the bore of the can before ever shooting through it. Usually you can just eyeball it, but you can also use some kind of alignment rod. A baffle strike will ruin your day.
I came across a video on YouTube of a guy ordering tool steel rods to use as alignment rods. I ended up ordering 4 of them for half the price of one alignment rod from any of the supressor companies. I ordered rods for .22 6.5mm 7mm and .308. I'll add a pic of the invoice for specifics if anyone else is wanting to order then
thanks for the info.Never. Just put them on tight, like 'hold the gun between your legs and wrench it with both hands' kind of tight. After you've shot a bit maybe check again (when it's cooled enough), but I've never had one come loose.
I also use a sharpie to put a tiny witness mark on both the can and barrel to make sure I apply roughly the same amount of torque each time, as that can affect POI.
Another tip: No matter who does your threading, or if you do direct thread vs quick detach, make sure your bore is aligned with the bore of the can before ever shooting through it. Usually you can just eyeball it, but you can also use some kind of alignment rod. A baffle strike will ruin your day.
No. But I have read about many instances, including cans being launched many yards downrange. Each case usually involves a suppressor cover and a lack of checking that the can is actually up tight against the barrel shoulder.have you had a baffle strike?
I mean, you can... but most cans don't have wrench flats on them, so you might need a strap wrench or something to get it off....would it be wise to use a little blue locktite or would that not be a good idea?
Perfect. I archived an email of everything so I'll just keep that on hand at all times.I keep a copy of my stamp paperwork and trust on my phone and also in my email so I can easily access it if I need to. I used to keep a paper copy with me all the time but not anymore. I still keep plenty of paper copies on hand but I’ve never been asked to see one.
thanks for the heads up! i wouldnt have thought of that. i will be starting from scratch with the deer rifle as its getting new optics as wellBe sure to record POI/dope changes between suppressed and unsuppressed per rifle.
It will save you time if you want to swap between the two.
I didn't do this right off and even though it may seem like a simple thing to do, you'd be surprised how many guys don't do it. Or just fail to think about it.