7-08 Rem: Input Needed

Kentucky Windage

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"Kimber money" he says! Lapua brass would cost 7X more than resizing LC 7.62 brass. I don't have Lapua money. I could buy a cheaper 7-08 but by the time I get it "how I want it" it'll cost more than a Kimber.

Here is another way to look at it. Add up the total cost of your new rifle including optics and optic mounts. Then calculate the percentage of the total cost with quality brass. I'm not trying to tell you to go buy a new house that's 7X more than you can afford. We are talking about brass.

Example. My custom 6.5-284. I have 100 pieces of lapua brass for it. That's all in need. It's not a paper puncher or P-dog gun.
 


deleted_account

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Where to start...

I bought a Kimber Montana in .308 about a year ago. I really liked the rifle... up until I had to shoot it. I'm not a bolt-action guy and definitely a novice shooter. Sold the Kimber and bought a nice, heavy Remington 700 with a 24" heavy barrel. I'm still not a great shooter but at least I have a rifle I'm comfortable learning with. I do enjoy shooting it, but it's not ideal for many hunting applications and I still fawn over that Kimber.

So I came across the Kimber Adirondack in 7mm. Weighs under 5#, has an 18" threaded barrel. I can throw a suppressor on it and a scope and it'll still be under 7#. Very expensive, but I have time to save up for it.

I've been reading a little about 7-08 and it appeals to me for the following reasons:

1. I have a couple thousand pieces of once-fired Lake City 7.62x51 brass that I can resize to 7-08.
2. Seems to work pretty well out of a shorter barrel
3. Less recoil, better BC, and better KE @ 500 yds than comparable .308

Ok, please proceed with poking holes in this idea. It will save me a lot of $$ if someone can convince me this is a stupid idea.

for some reason i feel like Horsager has had this conversation with you before.
 

Lycanthrope

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I like 7mm08, was one of my favorite deer rifles when I was younger. Id really like to get another. Ive got a 7mm RM setting around collecting dust I should trade in on one maybe...
 

Bed Wetter

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Can't sleep. Sitting here thinking, "if I spring for Lapua brass on the 7mm-08, why not just make the leap to 6.5 Creedmoor?"

6.5 Cr vs 7-08:
- less recoil?
- better velocity?
- increased pressure?
- what's barrel life like between a 6.5 and 7-08?
 

Account Deleted

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I always wondered what happened to Tim.

There's no wrong decision. Just pull the trigger.
 


SupressYourself

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6.5 Cr vs 7-08:
- less recoil? -- yes
- better velocity? -- yes
- increased pressure? -- yes
- what's barrel life like between a 6.5 and 7-08? -- for how much you're likely to shoot either: negligible.

Here's something else to keep you up at night: 6.5 Creedmoor or 260 Remington?
The ballistics are essentially the same, and with the 260, you could still use that pile of cheap brass you're so fond of.

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if I spring for Lapua brass on the 7mm-08...

There's two reasons typically given for reloading:

1. Craft exceptionally accurate rounds tailored to your firearm.
2. Save money in the long run.

To me, the two goals are mutually exclusive, unless you're really lucky.
The only way you're going to save money is if you use cheap components, use cheap reloading gear, and shoot a lot. However, if you use cheap stuff, you're unlikely to create anything that is more accurate than factory ammo.
 

Kurtr

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Unless you figure in the price of shooting match ammo and how many more loadings you get using the laupa brass. abm 260 ammo is 51.00 on midway right now with 130 bergers. That is 255.00 for one hundred rounds and in the grand scheme of things i shoot 100 alot of times in one session. i will just use the 260 for comparison sake. now this is if you have the equipment already

laupua brass $89.99
berger 130 $46.00
h4350- $30.00/7000 grains per pound=.004*42=.17 per load *100=$17.00
primer- $ 3.00

so for 100 you are around $155.00 then the cost goes down as you reuse the brass. I use these break downs to prove to wife i am a money saving fool hahaha


Another thing with the creedmoor you can get match ammo for 25 ish and then you have the hornady brass to reload which some dont like but i am going on 5 loadings with mine and need to anneal now. The 6.5 creedmoor is the 260 done right when it comes to short actions.
 

PrairieGhost

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Do not let brass make your decision for the cartridge you choose. I have to agree with go for the Creedmoor. A salesman at Scheels was talking with me about the Ruger American Predators. His comment was they are have respectable accuracy, but every Creedmoor he has experienced shot extremely good.
 

Kentucky Windage

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For high BC bullets, I think the 6.5mm pill weights are more than enough for whitetails. 7mm if you pursue larger game and only want one rifle.

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30 cal if you have a small penis.
 


SDMF

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My small penis has nothing to do with my choice of calibers. Dumbass...

Nor is your choice of chamberings predicated upon real-world demonstrations oft offered and oft deferred.
 

Norske

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Creedmore vs. 7-08.
Use Hodgdon's and Hornady's websites. Hodgdon reloading data will approximate the velocity of handloads for each cartridge. Hornady's website has a link on the left of the homepage called ballistic resources. Click on that tab and choose HITS from the drop-down menu. Compare the power numbers of the cartridges being compared. If you ever hunt anything heavier than deer, this comparison should be of interest.
 

deleted_account

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Nor is your choice of chamberings predicated upon real-world demonstrations oft offered and oft deferred.

i learned a while ago to just listen to what you tell me to do. so far, so good...
 

Kurtr

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I don't feel under gunned one bit shooting 143 eld x at 2820 at elk.
 

Bed Wetter

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Here's something else to keep you up at night: 6.5 Creedmoor or 260 Remington?
The ballistics are essentially the same, and with the 260, you could still use that pile of cheap brass you're so fond of.

That's what I was thinking, but I'm starting to find examples of guys resizing 7.62 LC brass to 6.5 CM. On a side note, PWS makes an MK220 (long-stroke piston AR-10) in 6.5 CM. That's my 2nd favorite AR10.

Here's an intriguing example:

http://www.65creedmoor.com/index.php?topic=1996.0

"I've been shooting the 6.5 Creedmoor for approximately 2 year. I've fired in excess of 1100 rounds between two rifles. The first rifle was a Savage 10FCP-K that I rebarreled to 6.5. A Krieger 1-8.5 barrel was used. I have since built a new rifle using a Pierce Engineering short action repeater mated to a Broughton 1-8 5C barrel that fits in a Eliseo R5 chassis system. When I started to reload for it brass was difficult to find. I began forming the 6.5 CM case from Lake City and Federal Cartridge once fired brass. It was a challenge, however, I was successful. I do not use any brass but L.C. or F.C. The brass must be hard when working it. If you anneal it before forming you will crush the brass. Anneal after the forming. I used Redding full length sizing die with the decapper removed. Imperial sizing lube was used for the lubricant.
There are advantages to using LC and FC brass. It has a thicker wall and does require neck turning. This allows a tighter neck in the chamber. I turn the necks to .295 diameter. Saami spec for the neck diameter in the chamber is.296 diameter. I trim the brass to the minimum length and have not needed to trim any so far. I only neck size using a Redding bump die. Because the brass is thicker it will take a higher pressure charge. Currently, I am using Winchester large rifle primers, 44.0 of Ramshot Hunter for Hornady 140 BTHP Match and Nosler 140CC. 44.3 grains of Ramshot Hunter for Berger 140VLD and 140Hybrid. The powder charge is not compressed. I have observered that the 140 & 142 grain bullet are concidered heavy bullets. Heavy bullets use slower burning powders. I have achieved a stable muzzle velocity of 2950 fps average with excellent accuracy. There are no pressure signs such as crateing or pierced primers. No loose primer pockets. No smileys on the head. I cannot say how long my barrels will last. There was a lot of trial and error. Emphisis on error.
Hornady picked a winner. The 6.5 Creedmoor is a fantastic cartrige and has a lot of potential. It's performance can be improved.
I retired my 308."

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Also neat: http://txbrassworks.com/lake-city-762-creedmoor-conversion/
 


deleted_account

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That's what I was thinking, but I'm starting to find examples of guys resizing 7.62 LC brass to 6.5 CM. On a side note, PWS makes an MK220 (long-stroke piston AR-10) in 6.5 CM. That's my 2nd favorite AR10.

Here's an intriguing example:

http://www.65creedmoor.com/index.php?topic=1996.0

"I've been shooting the 6.5 Creedmoor for approximately 2 year. I've fired in excess of 1100 rounds between two rifles. The first rifle was a Savage 10FCP-K that I rebarreled to 6.5. A Krieger 1-8.5 barrel was used. I have since built a new rifle using a Pierce Engineering short action repeater mated to a Broughton 1-8 5C barrel that fits in a Eliseo R5 chassis system. When I started to reload for it brass was difficult to find. I began forming the 6.5 CM case from Lake City and Federal Cartridge once fired brass. It was a challenge, however, I was successful. I do not use any brass but L.C. or F.C. The brass must be hard when working it. If you anneal it before forming you will crush the brass. Anneal after the forming. I used Redding full length sizing die with the decapper removed. Imperial sizing lube was used for the lubricant.
There are advantages to using LC and FC brass. It has a thicker wall and does require neck turning. This allows a tighter neck in the chamber. I turn the necks to .295 diameter. Saami spec for the neck diameter in the chamber is.296 diameter. I trim the brass to the minimum length and have not needed to trim any so far. I only neck size using a Redding bump die. Because the brass is thicker it will take a higher pressure charge. Currently, I am using Winchester large rifle primers, 44.0 of Ramshot Hunter for Hornady 140 BTHP Match and Nosler 140CC. 44.3 grains of Ramshot Hunter for Berger 140VLD and 140Hybrid. The powder charge is not compressed. I have observered that the 140 & 142 grain bullet are concidered heavy bullets. Heavy bullets use slower burning powders. I have achieved a stable muzzle velocity of 2950 fps average with excellent accuracy. There are no pressure signs such as crateing or pierced primers. No loose primer pockets. No smileys on the head. I cannot say how long my barrels will last. There was a lot of trial and error. Emphisis on error.
Hornady picked a winner. The 6.5 Creedmoor is a fantastic cartrige and has a lot of potential. It's performance can be improved.
I retired my 308."

- - - Updated - - -

Also neat: http://txbrassworks.com/lake-city-762-creedmoor-conversion/

i do not envy you
 

SupressYourself

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I'm starting to find examples of guys resizing 7.62 LC brass to 6.5 CM.

That sounds like a giant pain in the ass. Is your time worth nothing?
This isn't 2007 anymore. Creedmoor brass is readily available from several manufacturers.

Lapua recently started making 6.5CM brass. That's what you want:
https://www.midwayusa.com/product/280693/lapua-reloading-brass-65-creedmoor-box-of-100

If you feel you have to "cheap out" get Hornady brass. That's good too:
https://www.midwayusa.com/product/1018463576/hornady-reloading-brass-65-creedmoor

Note: The Lapua brass uses a small rifle primer, which is interesting. It certainly works on the 6.5x47 Lapua...
 
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Bed Wetter

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That sounds like a giant pain in the ass. Is your time worth nothing?

Just thinking through possibilities. All things considered for a lightweight bolt gun I'd be better served picking up 1-200 pieces of brass. With a semi auto or even a heavy bolt gun I expect to burn through a lot of ammo.
 

Kurtr

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I kinda like brass prep and reloading but not enough to want to do all that work. Hornady brass can be found once fired pretty cheap.

You know the creedmoor was designed to run out of an AR...Just more to think about
 


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