Lawnmower starting issue

[Maddog]

Read this somewhere for hard starting engines. Ti[ the mower on it's side, tank side up. I tip for about 10-15 seconds, then down on alls heels. My tank doesn't leak doing this and it starts with 1 or 2 pulls. Just did it last week. Cleaned air filter, fresh gas, tip on side. 1 pull. I'm with others that it's not a problem with a warm engine. Evidently the tipping and gas runs into carburetor like a choke.

Not a good enough mechanic to explain why it works, it just does for me.

ty
I will give it a whirl

 

[jdfisherman]

Walk behind mower - had an issue with hard starting when warm. Best I can figure is either the exhaust valve is burned a bit or has carbon buildup. Has good compression when cold but when warm the exhaust valve doesn't seat all the way so lack of compression makes it hard to start. I don't know if I'm imagining it but I run a tank of 1/3 Seafoam 2/3 gas through it every 4 - 6 weeks and it seems to help with the hard starting. Have also used the spray Seafoam where you take off the air cleaner and spray into the carb when running - short bursts a few times then a full blast until the engine chokes out. Let it sit for 20 minutes then restart. Cleans up some of the carbon deposits.

Going on 25 yrs now so it's definitely getting wore out but keep limping it along because all of the new stuff is junk.

 

[D-Racer]

Firm believer in Seafoam. Have used it for many years.

 

[Maddog]

Walk behind mower - had an issue with hard starting when warm. Best I can figure is either the exhaust valve is burned a bit or has carbon buildup. Has good compression when cold but when warm the exhaust valve doesn't seat all the way so lack of compression makes it hard to start. I don't know if I'm imagining it but I run a tank of 1/3 Seafoam 2/3 gas through it every 4 - 6 weeks and it seems to help with the hard starting. Have also used the spray Seafoam where you take off the air cleaner and spray into the carb when running - short bursts a few times then a full blast until the engine chokes out. Let it sit for 20 minutes then restart. Cleans up some of the carbon deposits.

Going on 25 yrs now so it's definitely getting wore out but keep limping it along because all of the new stuff is junk.

Yep others may question why I don't just get a new one.
My opinion is the same, the new stuff would be even worse.

Plus I am a tight wad.

 

[luvcatchingbass]

Walk behind mower - had an issue with hard starting when warm. Best I can figure is either the exhaust valve is burned a bit or has carbon buildup. Has good compression when cold but when warm the exhaust valve doesn't seat all the way so lack of compression makes it hard to start. I don't know if I'm imagining it but I run a tank of 1/3 Seafoam 2/3 gas through it every 4 - 6 weeks and it seems to help with the hard starting. Have also used the spray Seafoam where you take off the air cleaner and spray into the carb when running - short bursts a few times then a full blast until the engine chokes out. Let it sit for 20 minutes then restart. Cleans up some of the carbon deposits.

Going on 25 yrs now so it's definitely getting wore out but keep limping it along because all of the new stuff is junk.

I've used Seafoam in various capacities as well just like you have stated in small and large engines. On the gas pony motor (little v4 gas to start the large diesel 2.375" bore 2" stroke) for my JD 70 Diesel I have put really heavy doses through it when it doesn't rev up like it should and it sure will start screaming after it starts getting that mix into it. Amazingly that little motor has never been taken apart and I hope I never have to.

 

[Allen]

I've used Seafoam in various capacities as well just like you have stated in small and large engines. On the gas pony motor (little v4 gas to start the large diesel 2.375" bore 2" stroke) for my JD 70 Diesel I have put really heavy doses through it when it doesn't rev up like it should and it sure will start screaming after it starts getting that mix into it. Amazingly that little motor has never been taken apart and I hope I never have to.

I grew up driving a 70 JD just like you describe. That was a real pain in the derriere!

Then again, the 24 volt system in the 830 JD wasn't much better.

 

[wslayer]

Walk behind mower - had an issue with hard starting when warm. Best I can figure is either the exhaust valve is burned a bit or has carbon buildup. Has good compression when cold but when warm the exhaust valve doesn't seat all the way so lack of compression makes it hard to start. I don't know if I'm imagining it but I run a tank of 1/3 Seafoam 2/3 gas through it every 4 - 6 weeks and it seems to help with the hard starting. Have also used the spray Seafoam where you take off the air cleaner and spray into the carb when running - short bursts a few times then a full blast until the engine chokes out. Let it sit for 20 minutes then restart. Cleans up some of the carbon deposits.

Going on 25 yrs now so it's definitely getting wore out but keep limping it along because all of the new stuff is junk.

Bro just went thru that with his mower. Starts easily when cold but not when it's warm. Ignition coil and runs like new again.

 

[1lessdog]

I've used Seafoam in various capacities as well just like you have stated in small and large engines. On the gas pony motor (little v4 gas to start the large diesel 2.375" bore 2" stroke) for my JD 70 Diesel I have put really heavy doses through it when it doesn't rev up like it should and it sure will start screaming after it starts getting that mix into it. Amazingly that little motor has never been taken apart and I hope I never have to.

I grew up with a John Deere 830 with the Pony motor on it. They were so easy to flood out.

 

[SDMF]

I think repairs on small engines are MUCH easier than they used to be. Use your phone, take pics, take it apart, take pics along the way, refer back to pics as you re-assemble.

 

[D-Racer]

Do the same thing with bigger projects, as my photographic memory.....isn't.

 

[Motor Mouse]

I work on lawn and garden equipment, ice augers, generators and stuff. 20 something units a year. I’m retired and do it as a hobby, don’t charge anything,just for what ever parts I stick in it cost. So I’m getting busier after every one I fix! Ha. Most if not all push mowers have the gas tank above the carb and rely on gravity to fill the carb bowl. That’s why many have primer bulbs. Tilting the mower so the tank is up and draining towards the carb will help fill the bowl maybe, especially if your tank vent is obstructed or primer bulb is not working. Gas should fill the bowl regardless when you prime it. If not you likely have a needle and seat issue or venting issue or bad primer.

60 to 70 % of the motors I work on have gummed carbs and or rotted fuel lines. The other 20 - 30 % of the time it’s the magneto. Engines that have the fuel line inside the tank (most 2 cycle weed eaters, chain saws weed badgers and old two cycle ice augers) usually with a filter attached to the fuel line inside the tank rot out. They will run till the fuel gets lower than the rotted area then start sputtering, quit and then won’t start.

Never ever run alcohol gas! Put a little stabilizer or sea foam in at the end of the season, run them for 5 - 10 minutes, turn the gas off and let them run till they quit. If you don’t have a gas shutoff put one in! But not on a 2 cycle! Don’t want to run them dry. Just put stabilizer in run them for a few minutes and shut them off.

They run for years! Oh ya if a 4 stroke should adjust the valve lash about every 100 hours or so on a small engine. Seems like the bigger rider or zero turn motors you can stretch the valve lash to 150 to 200 hours. The manual will tell you.